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TR4/4A Replacing in situ oils sealing gearbox and rear axle

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Tr-Beg

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Is this possible to replace in situ the oil seal of the gearbox ( no overdrive ) and oil sealing entry rear axle ( IRS ).
 
I have done the pinion seal -- easier if the car is on a lift but quite doable either way.

I defer to others re the gearbox rear seal.
 
When was the last time you dropped the exhaust system? There in lies the big in the way problem.
The drive shaft drop is a pain and undoing the nuts on the rear end and transmission requires you leave two bolts in the flange and brace a crow bar on the ground to break it loose. Mark the position of the nuts, so as to put them back with correct torque. The rear has a crush sleeve and you don't want to mess up the adjustment. Clean the surface the seal rides on and be prepared to have smelly oil all over you if not on the floor. Be sure and top both back up with proper oil.

Wayne
 
First question : suppose you have on a bench your gearbox, how can you replace the oil seal on the rear, easy of not? Same with the rear axle IRS, easy to remove the oil seal on the entry? easy to remove them?
 
Kind of the same thing in getting the nuts off. Insert two bolts in the flange of either and brace it on the drive way of floor. There is a tool made for this, but a crow bar will work for you to get a socket on the nut.
I can't stress enough about putting it back like you found it, make a mark with a punch, a magic maker will wash away with the oil.

Wayne
 
My question is how to extract the oil seals, is there place to place a tool behind the seal and pull it out? Which guy have already did it. Thanks!
 
I used this to remove the pinion seal on 2 TRs and a Healey:

https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-with-2-tips-63039.html

image_26983.jpg


As I recall, others have inserted stout sheet metal screws into the metal of the seal and pulled, some may have used a slide hammer. But space in limited so you have to work with what fits.
 
Changing the trans. rear seal (and front) is relatively easy with both units on a bench. The Harbor Freight tool shown bent on the first attempted use. I bought one of the same type (Lsyle) brand and it has pulled many seals without a problem.
Also, the spacer used on the TR4A is the solid type, not the crush type, unless the diff from a late TR6 has been used.
Berry
 
The seal puller tool makes removing the seal easy, but it can also be removed by attacking with a screwdriver and mangling the seal into submission. Also, consider replacing the axle seals and drilling&tapping the diff case for a drain plug, and inspecting the mounts (especially the right front) for cracking. The frame is also prone to cracking where the mounting studs are welded to it. Lots of things to do when the diff and trans. are out.
Berry
 
Yes I have already decide to change the 3 oil seals on the rear axle. No drain plug? how do change the oil? opening the back lid?
 
Tr-Beg said:
...opening the back lid?
Click to expand...

That is how I have always done it. Wouldn't you like to have a chat with the accountant (it couldn't have been an engineer) who realized they could save 10d per car by eliminating the drain plug?

At least it is a good chance to inspect the innards while it is off.
 
I don't want to inspect the innards, the task is replacing 3 seals, I know the TR, you just look inside en suddenly you decide to overhaul everything... :smile:
 
I have had those same thoughts about putting a rear seal into the tail shaft of a tr3, either by removing the whole tail shaft or trying to get the seal out with the trany in place. I have not got under the car and really studied the situation. Heck if it was not for the apron, I would pull the engine and trans together, but I have just pulled the trany out from inside the cockpit a few times.

Anyways I have pulled those seals out in every way mentioned above, and one thing is always true be very careful of the case. Do not put a tool between the seal and the case because a good size scratch in the case will leak. Plus there might be one there now, so when you reinstall the new seal check and just for insurance put something on the outside of the seal like aviation gasket sealer or something like that.
steve
 
sp53 said:
I have had those same thoughts about putting a rear seal into the tail shaft of a tr3, either by removing the whole tail shaft or trying to get the seal out with the trany in place. I have not got under the car and really studied the situation. Heck if it was not for the apron, I would pull the engine and trans together, but I have just pulled the trany out from inside the cockpit a few times.

Anyways I have pulled those seals out in every way mentioned above, and one thing is always true be very careful of the case. Do not put a tool between the seal and the case because a good size scratch in the case will leak. Plus there might be one there now, so when you reinstall the new seal check and just for insurance put something on the outside of the seal like aviation gasket sealer or something like that.
steve
Click to expand...

Good advice, exactly what I had here...

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?110687-Tr4A-oil-leaking-from-timing-cover
 
Maybe I'm just too finicky and cautious, but I had one heck of a time getting that seal out, even with the differential out of the car. The center pinion is in the way, and mangling the seal would seem to have involved marring and maybe mangling the seal housing. I was able, finally, to use an improvised puller where shoulders of the pulling rods tucked under the seal ridges and the center stud pressed on the pinion shaft. Needless to say, it was a small, compact puller. Hope that's not too obtuse an explanation.
 
KVH said:
Maybe I'm just too finicky and cautious, but I had one heck of a time getting that seal out, even with the differential out of the car. The center pinion is in the way, and mangling the seal would seem to have involved marring and maybe mangling the seal housing. I was able, finally, to use an improvised puller where shoulders of the pulling rods tucked under the seal ridges and the center stud pressed on the pinion shaft. Needless to say, it was a small, compact puller. Hope that's not too obtuse an explanation.
Click to expand...

Maybe for your Christmas... :smile:

https://www.kangstools.com/home/174...-installation-set-kit-tool-5060427681805.html
 
I thought of making a tool like a slid hammer with a V shape and 2 self-tapping screws. Put the 3/16 screws in and slid the hammer back. I agree they are really stuck sometimes and it seems the removal force is wrong when it is applied to one side only.
steve
 
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