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Replacing Axel Shaft Seal

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Ray Smith

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Would someone please give me step by step directions on how to replace the rear hub oil seal on my BJ7. I pulled the left drum last night and noticed that there was a trace of oil on the backing plate. I checked in my Hayes manual for directions, but found them lacking. How do you remove the hub that contains the seal? What type of puller must I use? Any tips on how to remove the large nut that attaches the hub.

Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Ray
 
Check the old posts. I did this last year ago and got some great help. One problem IS that nut. The socket sells for about 50 bucks. I just distroyed the nut and replaced it. There are many other cautions about the bearings and seals.
 
Hi Ray, It is best to obtain a proper sized socket. to rmove the nut. I obtained mine,Esco 2/316, from a truck repair supply store. Be careful because the nuts are handed.To remove the hub containing the seal and bearing I used a piece of 5/16" steel plate drilled to match two of the bolt holes and my Knocker to pull it off.An alternative technique to remove the nut and which usually damages it is to use a chissel to loosen it.Once the hub is off the bearing can be drifted out and the seal removed.Becarful on reinstalling the bearing as it does not set flush with the end of the hub but remains just a bit proud.Others have used presses and destroyed the hub.On reinstalling the hub it can be driven in using a piece of 2 X 4 as a protector amd a lead or dead hammer.Hope this helps you out a bit.---Keoke
 
Keoke,

The seal in question is on the left rear. Would the nut turn ccw to remove, the same as the knock off on that wheel.

Tahoe,

Having trouble using the archives. What search words and time frame did you use? I am not familiar with this feature.

Ray
 
Hi, Ray, I just sent you an e-mail with "cut and pastes" of all the great information I recieved from forum and lister Healeyites. IF you don't get it, let me know and I will resend.
 
OK thats good Stever, I have been out all day just got back in.---Keoke
 
Did the same job two weeks ago. Nut comes off the opposite way to the knock-off.

When I did mine, the hub was not that tight, it pulled off by reversing the halfshaft so I could use it as a handle [thanks Dave Russell for that tip]. The bearing drifted out no bother. I had a couple of goes to get it back in straight after replacing the seal. Try to find something the right size to use as a drift.

Good luck

Rgds

Mike
 
Thats a neat trick mbrooks.But in my opinion if you can pull a hub off the diff housing using only your hands the hub is worn and should have been knurled before it was replaced.Or are you saying you used the rear axel as a knocker---Fwiw---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thats a neat trick mbrooks.But in my opinion if you can pull a hub off the diff housing using only your hands the hub is worn and should have been knurled before it was replaced.Or are you saying you used the rear axle as a knocker---Fwiw---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Keoke,
When you pull the hub off of the axle housing extension, you are actually pulling the hub & bearing with it's inner race off. The inner race is all that is contacting the axle housing extension. What kind of tool do you use to knurl the axle housing?

I have had good results with a Loctite type bearing set compound if the inner race is loose on the axle extension.

This is the puller that I use:
To get the hub off, after removing the large nut, put the axle flange
backward onto the studs, & use the axle as a handle to pull the hub
off. Frequently, the hub bearing is not all that tight on the axle
housing extension & you can just carefully pry the hub flange off. If
necessary, fashion a wood plug to bottom out on the end of the axle
housing where the big nut goes, With the end of the plug sticking out
a bit beyond the Wheel stud flange. Bolt down the reversed axle
flange, with axle sticking out of course. When the flange contacts
the wood plug, tighten the nuts evenly to draw the hub off.
D
 
We use a simple metal punch Dave, got that trick from Norman Knock. Kinda antique huh. But also works if the bearing is loose fitting in the hub too. OH! Dave, BJ's have one piece bearings---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
You are right,Dave it takes a bit of practice to get the"expanded " dimples to be about the same height. I never thought of using locktite there but that was about 10 years ago it should do the trick I think.Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
We use a simple metal punch Dave, got that trick from Norman Knock. Kinda antique huh. But also works if the bearing is loose fitting in the hub too. OH! Dave, BJ's have one piece bearings---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
OK I guess. I don't see how a punch knurls anything. Did you mean expand? It must take quite a precise punch pattern to get just the right expansion. How does a punch decrease the hub ID to tighten the fit, kind of hard to get a good precise pattern in such a tight space. I think I prefer the gap filling loctite myself. As far as I know, they all have one piece bearings. Are we communicating?
D
 
Yeah Dave, we are talking about the same thing your mention of "inner race " earlier was misinterpreted thats all.---Keoke
 
Thanks to all for the most useful information. The "tip" from Dave about using the axel to pull the hub will certainly be very useful.

A special thank to Stever for taking the time to cut and paste numerous items on seal replacement and then email them to me. Must say that healey owners are a most helpful group of people.

Ray
 
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