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TR2/3/3A Replace disc pads on TR3A
- Thread starter tad
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Removal shouldn't be very difficult. Only thing I remember from my 3A days is that one does run the risk of the head of the retaining clip bolt snapping off. But once the bolts are undone and the clips removed, the pads pretty much pull out. It can't hurt to try roughing them up, but it might be just as easy to put new ones in.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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X2 on why not just replace? For something so important, so long lasting & fairly inexpensive -- it would just make sense to me.
I can confirm what Andy mentioned about breaking the little bolt -- as Randall says 'I have experimented with that'. Was able to drill and remove the threads w/o much fuss though.
Removing them should be easy enough, you might have to crack open the bleeder to allow them to be retracted a bit. If they are worn down a fair amount you will get an idea of how well your pistons slide back as they will need to go all the way in to get the new pad to slip in. Good time to inspect the boots, discs and overall condition of the caliper.
Do you know how they became glazed? There is a restrictor valve whose purpose is to keep the pads close to the disc when the brake is released. Sort of a check valve -- it is the tall (1.5") tube thing atop the 5-way gadget where the brake light switch is (on the frame behind the RF wheel). Some remove the innards of that valve if it is causing the pads to drag.
I can confirm what Andy mentioned about breaking the little bolt -- as Randall says 'I have experimented with that'. Was able to drill and remove the threads w/o much fuss though.
Removing them should be easy enough, you might have to crack open the bleeder to allow them to be retracted a bit. If they are worn down a fair amount you will get an idea of how well your pistons slide back as they will need to go all the way in to get the new pad to slip in. Good time to inspect the boots, discs and overall condition of the caliper.
Do you know how they became glazed? There is a restrictor valve whose purpose is to keep the pads close to the disc when the brake is released. Sort of a check valve -- it is the tall (1.5") tube thing atop the 5-way gadget where the brake light switch is (on the frame behind the RF wheel). Some remove the innards of that valve if it is causing the pads to drag.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Generally I recommend against blindly replacing components, since new parts are so iffy these days. But in this case, if they are glazed, then I have to agree. To get glazed, they have to either have been contaminated (in which case they should be replaced), or else the friction material has been overheated (in which case it should be replaced).
The valve Geo is talking about is supposed to cause the pads to drag, which I don't like at all. So I disabled mine many years ago. The only downside is that you may be able to notice a somewhat lower brake pedal after driving the car hard (which is the problem the RPV was intended to prevent). But even Triumph eventually decided the valve wasn't worth including in cars driven on the street, so it was eventually discontinued (near the end of 4A production as I recall).
The valve Geo is talking about is supposed to cause the pads to drag, which I don't like at all. So I disabled mine many years ago. The only downside is that you may be able to notice a somewhat lower brake pedal after driving the car hard (which is the problem the RPV was intended to prevent). But even Triumph eventually decided the valve wasn't worth including in cars driven on the street, so it was eventually discontinued (near the end of 4A production as I recall).
Thanks guys.
Stupid me did the potential glazing. The master cylinder was bad and was keeping pressure on the brakes. When I finally realized what was happening, I released the pressure from the MC, but had to continue driving home (really rural TN). Every time I used the brakes, they'd lock up again. Anyway, got home, replaced the cylinder, but now the brakes require mucho pressure to stop the car.
Stupid me did the potential glazing. The master cylinder was bad and was keeping pressure on the brakes. When I finally realized what was happening, I released the pressure from the MC, but had to continue driving home (really rural TN). Every time I used the brakes, they'd lock up again. Anyway, got home, replaced the cylinder, but now the brakes require mucho pressure to stop the car.