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Repairing a dual gauge, follow up

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In this thread:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post230732
Doug listed a web site to attempt a repair on the water temperature gauge. I had to buy a $12 gauge for a long drive, and decided to attempt the repair since I had no other use for the cheap gauge or the broken smiths unit. It seems to have been an initial success. It reads 212 in boiling water, and 180 in 180 degree water(measured with a meat thermometer). How long the repair will last remains to be seen. On a related note : I also used the salt/ice water bath to keep my beer cold while I worked. And yes, if a beer gets too cold it ruins the flavor.
 
I'm not a beer drinker (never got used to the taste) but I think the beer finding is equal in importance to your success with the gauge repair.

On the gauge I repaired I found I had to really work on getting the calibration right below 160. The mechanical repair was straight-forward but the calibration was a lot of tweaking, trail and error. Still, it was cheaper than professional repairs and an interesting challenge.

I'm glad your initial results were good. Usually the leak on the 'old' gauge is in the capillary tubing or bulb and happens during removal or installation. Your repair should work quite well indefinitely. Remember to put a little anti-seize on the nut for the new bulb. With luck, your repaired gauge can be installed and rememoved as necessary without a future failure.
 
I didn't check it below 170. I was just wanting it close for my operating temperature and boiling. It was almost dead on at 170,180, and 212.

Thanks again for the link.
 
As an aside have you ever checked to see how accurate the originals are below 160?
 
I haven't checked the accuracy of a working (unmolested) dual gauge yet. I have a dual gauge out of a non-BMC car (perhaps a Jag?) with a bigger expansion bulb. Next time I work on calibrating an A-series friendly dual gauge I'll drag the other dual gauge out and compare its calibration.
 
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