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Removing the Transmission

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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I'm getting close to removing my transmission in my TR4A.

What the manual doesn't quite make clear to me is this: When I remove the rear frame cross-brace near the driveshaft, after already supporting the engine sump up front, don't I have to support the rear of the transmission do it isn't just hanging from the bell-housing bolts?
 
It won't hurt for it to hang from the bolts; but you will certainly want to support it when you start removing the bolts.
 
At least on my TR4A's, I don't recall removing the rear crossbrace as being needed to remove the transmission from within the car.

Scott
 
I use this:

image_11238.jpg


I cut the 'ears' off (for clearance) and ditched the strap -- possibly overkill but does provide good support that is easily adjustable for height and rolls around.

I also use a pipe (old jack handle but conduit would probably work) under the tailshaft for a support that rolls fore and aft (mostly for the install as I recall).

Makes the R&R of an OD box a one-man job (but just barely in the case of this old man).

I also have a used input shaft which I think is the best alignment tool and some long headless bolts that can help line things up.

Let me know if you want to borrow the jack &/or tool.
 
Geo,

How do you use that bar or conduit under the tail shaft? Do you mean across the frame?

Also, about that input shaft/alignment tool. Are you saying that you use that to be sure the clutch assembly is centered to receive the front spigot?
 
You can't get those in New Zealand but the TR resto king has modified his trolly jack so that it has a cradle capable of supporting the gearbox. Reckons it takes him 30mins to install the box. I will contact him to get a photo of it. I wish I had one when I replaced the clutch a few years back, took me hours of swearing and cursing.
 
That transmission jack looks nice. I was going to minimally recommend a rolling floor jack under the transmission when disengaging it from the engine.

Scott
 
All I have ever used is a small floor jack to hold the engine up. I jack the engine as high as I can get it and still clear the bulkhead sheetmetal to slide the trans out. Going back, I always remove the middle stud at the top of engine and put in 4/6" inch long stud to help guide the trans back in place. I have the same trans jack as Geo but seems to be a little big for the area. Geo, do you let the jack extend out from the engine and let the trans slide on it?

Marv
 
I took out the mount and left the cross piece with some wood slid in there for support. I would replace that rubbber mount, having had one break when I first got the car and replacing it from underneath. Don't do that.
I also used a floor jack. The 4" x 4" has a hole for the drain plug to keep it from slipping. Backup was my wife standing in the cockpit with a rope looped around the tail for balance. I don't think she helped much but she thinks she put in the gearbox.
I used the plastic alignment tool with success and later remembered my extra shaft. Take your time to get it straight.
Although it went in smooth I like Marv's guide stud idea.

Jack.jpg
 
KVH said:
How do you use that bar or conduit under the tail shaft? Do you mean across the frame?
Click to expand...

The rod lays on the floorpans, across the gap and under the tail. I found it useful to undo both ends of the driveshaft to get it well out of the way -- probably not really necessary but made the R&R much easier I think.

KVH said:
Also, about that input shaft/alignment tool. Are you saying that you use that to be sure the clutch assembly is centered to receive the front spigot?
Click to expand...

Exactly. The plastic tools sold are okay but a real input shaft should be (IMO) better.

The guide studs are useful and easily made:

GearboxGuideStuds.jpg


When using the pictured jack I tape a couple of layers of cardboard to the cradle to present a slipperier surface for rotating the box. I only use that jack for supporting the gearbox, the front end is on jackstands and the oil pan supported by a stack of boards to hold the engine in a raised position.

The limit on raising the engine is, of course, the throttle shaft. I raised my engine as high as I dared keeping an eye on that throttle shaft, later I decided that I may have raised it higher than necessary and made the bell housing more difficult to work around the sheet metal than it need be.

Obviously, lots of ways to skin this cat.

One last thought -- you may find it useful to make some cardboard protection for the floorpans and rear tunnel (I did anyway because I have been known to drop things). On the TR4 it is easier to pull the steering wheel and go out the D/S door, you go out the other side on a 4A I suppose.

TR4Gearbox.jpg
 
I had to come up with something different as I have no friends (that will help me move remove/install a transmission). This is what I use. I hope this works as I have not tried inserting a picture before!

url]
 
Gene - some sites (possibly this Google site is one) do not allow you to use the image in a posting. Photobucket and others are good place to put pics for sharing.

I recall another site that showed a similar gearbox hoist (a Dutch site?) -- as I get too old to wrassle that begins to look like a good idea.
 
Wow, Gene, I am impressed! I've been doing it the hard way all these years (usually with no help at all).

Not sure why it was missing, but the link works better if you add ".jpg" to the end.

s144.jpg
 
Thanks Geo and Randall for the comments and other ideas. I admire anyone who does this by wrestling that thing out from under the dash with their bare hands!!
 
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