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Removing master cylinder

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hawkwind

hawkwind

Freshman Member
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Hey all,

I got the master cylinder out for a rebuild and I can't get the piston out of the cylinder. Spring, Spirolox and retaining ring are out. Piston moves up and down but the nylon guide bearing doesn't move. I've worked it quite a bit and don't want to let my frustration lead me to attempt short cuts that may damage the part.

Any suggestions?
 
there is if i recall correctly a a snap ring waaayy down inside of there....good luck


mark
 
Yes, and once I got that one out, I gave up on trying to get one of the roll pins out to separate the two halves and replace the seals (so I went to a VW cylinder). Good luck getting the darned thing apart!

Matt
 
Good luck on that, hawk. I attempted to rebuild mine, and that nylon washer was pretty well stuck in there. I ended up CAREFULLY drilling several holes into the nylon and gripping in between the holes with some needle nose pliers. I ended up buying a new master cylinder, because there's a spring clip buried deep underneath that nylon washer, and my snap ring pliers couldn't reach it. That might be why the BL manual shows a snap ring remover just for that clip :smile:. At that point I had spent several hours just getting the nylon bushing out, and a new master cylinder was worth the $170.
 
I just finished rebuilding mine yesterday. You should get a replacement nylon spacer with your rebuild kit so don't worry about messing it up. I've broken them into pieces to get them out and also drilled a couple small holes into the nylon and run a little wood screw into it to have something to pull against. Whatever you do, try not to score the piston since it does need a smooth sealing surface against your top seal. As for the last snap-ring under the nylon spacer, I use something like an awl to get one of the eyes pryed in and then up the bore a little. A second small screwdriver helps. Then do the other eye. All you're trying to do is get it out of the groove. Then you've got it made.

Now, after saying all this the sad truth is that I've got way too much experience in rebuilding master cylinders for no more miles than I've put on the cars over the years. I can't remember any other car I've owned where I've touched the hydraulics. Swapping to different master cyl. sounds like a great idea. I'd like to hear more on what people have successfully swapped to. Was that a Bug master cylinder referenced above or something newer?

Lee
 
I checked the rebuild kit and I do have a nylon spacer.

Drill a hole and thread in a screw. Hmmm. Sounds like my best option. I have a Dremel tool but I'm not in a hurry to use it. I hear what you're saying loud and clear about not damaging the piston or cylinders. I think I'll hold off for tonight at least.

I too would like to hear more about possible master cylinder swaps. I checked the price for a replacement from VB and it's a little more than I want to pay. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif It seems to me that as long as the piston travel is the same, the piston diameter is close to the same and the body will mount relatively easily, it should work.
 
I too cut the nylon bushing in half to remove it and I managed to find (after trying about THREE SETS) a pair of snap-ring pliers that reached all the way down to the other snap ring. I too then had a problem getting the roll pin out and busted a few 1/16th drifts in the process. It was quite a trying and difficult process but in the end it worked and my midget stops ON A DIME with the original MsCyl. Best braking car I've ever driven, no joke (I've also got the cross-drilled and slotted Brembo brake rotors and ultra wide tires /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif)

JACK
 
Hi all, here's the answer to the snap ring down in the master. Go get a pair of needle nose pliers, long skinny ones and put them on a grider until they fit down the side of the cylinder, then take a small file and cut a small nick in each end at about 45 degrees, this will help hold the snap ring. For a few bucks it will save a lot of time and you will have them to help other BL friends. As for the nylon washer, drilling a bunch of holes has been the best way for me over the years. The MGB has the same one. Wayne
 
I got it apart and and am rebuilding it now.

I used a drill press and clamped the master cylinder in a vise to make it a little easier. Once I had two holes opposite each other, I screwed in two wood screws long enough to get past the end of the piston. Then, I used the claw on a carpenter hammer to pry each screw a little at a time, using the other screw to set the hammer on as the pivot point. Worked great! The awl idea worked well for the inner snap ring too, but I like the modified needle nose pliers idea. Maybe next time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'll probably install the pedal box this week sometime. Next, I have to get the clutch slave cylinder out of the tranny. It feels loose but doesn't pull out easily like the manual implies it will.

BTW: this car hasn't run for a few years so there's a lot to do. Thanks to the help I got from this forum in figuring out the electrical, the engine now starts and runs good. The first time it started though, I swore I could smell a campfire. Twas the leaves and such that had collected around the exhaust manifold. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
This was a custom-engineered one-off involving welding new studs b/c the VW cylinder didn't have the same bolt diameter. I also had to install it at a 45 degree angle. It came out pretty good, and works fantastic, but its not a bolt in solution (which I would prefer). Maybe someday I'll design a bolt in solution ... I would have simply bought the speedwell triple master cylinder arrangement except that it was illegal for FSP in SCCA SoloII. That would have been the neatest solution, I suspect.
 
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