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Removing front shocks on a 100 -4

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bighealeysource

bighealeysource

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Hey all,
I'm needing to replace the front shocks on my 54 100 -4
and thought I would ask this esteemed group for their advice.
I've looked at a 100 -4 repair manual and does not exactly
deal with removing them. Have replaced front shocks on
other Brit cars but not a Healey. Do I have to compress
the front springs and other fun things or is this pretty
much just unbolting and removing the top wishbone bolt/s ?
Appreciate any advice or warnings so I don't get in over my
head.
Thanks,
Mike
 
The shock, on full droop does indeed still allow plenty of stored energy to stay in the spring.

How I've been doing it, is with the car safely on jackstands, put a raised floor jack under the side of the front suspension I wish to remove. After pulling out the upper trunion pivot pin, I then lower the jack releasing the spring. Now all that's left is to remove the four (4) shock mounting bolts.

Assembly being the opposite order of things.

Please have respect for those springs!

An alternative method, which I've also used, is to replace the springpan mounting bolts one at a time with a six inch (6") length of AllThread. With this, then you can slowly and evenly open the distance between the lower A-arms and the spring pan releasing the energy in the spring.

Again, BE CAREFUL!
 
Randy Forbes said:
The shock, on full droop does indeed still allow plenty of stored energy to stay in the spring.

How I've been doing it, is with the car safely on jackstands, put a raised floor jack under the side of the front suspension I wish to remove. After pulling out the upper trunion pivot pin, I then lower the jack releasing the spring. Now all that's left is to remove the four (4) shock mounting bolts.

Assembly being the opposite order of things.

Please have respect for those springs!

An alternative method, which I've also used, is to replace the springpan mounting bolts one at a time with a six inch (6") length of AllThread. With this, then you can slowly and evenly open the distance between the lower A-arms and the spring pan releasing the energy in the spring.

Again, BE CAREFUL!
Click to expand...

I'll repeat it: BE CAREFUL of those springs!

I've used the all-thread method, and so far I have all of my pieces still together.
 
Mike -

If you put a jack in the spring cup under the wishbone and jack it up, you'll be able to remove the shock without removing the springs. It's a good idea to put some large wood blocks under the chassis just in case the car comes off the jack, but I've never had that happen so it should be ok.

Be prepared to heat the bushes a bit to get it all apart, the link bolts usually get corroded into the bush crush tubes.
 
Not sure about the jack method, i'm always very wary around those springs,its to easy to lose a finger or your teeth or worse if one "escapes".
The manual states that the best way if you don't have the special tool is to use the long bolt method described above. I have found this very simple and safe. You need a couple of 6inch lengths of high tensile 3/8 studding. I welded a nut on one end of each, that way you can't accidentally unscrew it off the end while the spring is still compressed.
Remove one of the bolts holding the lower wishbone arm to the spring pan and replace it with the studding, secure the studding by screwing down a second nut from the other end. Do the same with the diagonally opposite bolt. Next remove the remaining two bolts. Now just wind down the un-welded nuts equally and the spring pan will be pushed down as the spring extends. Reassembly is the reverse of the above.

Oh and you may want to look carefully at the threads holding the shock absorber on , they get a lot of abuse and often have a mixture of BSF and UNF bolts in them. If I can work out how I will put a link to a previous post that you may find interesting.

Here you go https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/514130/1
 
bighealeysource,
I used the threaded rod method as described by others above, except I used longer rod and left any nuts unwelded, but pretty much the procedure as described by Dougal
 
I normally would be wary of using a jack, but the lifting cup on a floor jack fits pretty much perfectly into the spring cup at the bottom of the A-arm--at least mine did, making for a very secure fit (i.e. can't slide off).
 
I have used the below method as well with good luck. My main concern with jacks is that if things are off balance a little you can have something slip and these springs to have a lot of energy in them.

"An alternative method, which I've also used, is to replace the springpan mounting bolts one at a time with a six inch (6") length of AllThread. With this, then you can slowly and evenly open the distance between the lower A-arms and the spring pan releasing the energy in the spring."



Take your time, these things can hurt you if you rush.....

Michael.
55 BN1
 
Hey Y'all,
Thanks so much for the advice ! I've got the 100-4 up on 4 jack stands so
it's very secure in that respect. Will check and see how my floor jack's
lift cup fits under the spring cup. If it is not a good fit, I'm heading
to Home Depot to buy the 3/8 inch threaded rod as I do not want a Healey
shock deciding to make me a gelding or worse!
Regards,
Mike
 
Hey Alan,
Thanks for your advice. Like I said in my general reply
I'll see how my floor jack fits with the bottom of the
spring cup. Question for you, if I jack up/compress the spring
with the floor jack, then I can simply ( what is ever simple
on a 54 year old car) unbolt the shock and remove it ?
Obviously leave the jack in place and place the new shock
in place, bolt it down, and then release the jack ?
Thanks for your further help.
Mike
 
bighealeysource said:
Hey Alan,
Thanks for your advice. Like I said in my general reply
I'll see how my floor jack fits with the bottom of the
spring cup. Question for you, if I jack up/compress the spring
with the floor jack, then I can simply ( what is ever simple
on a 54 year old car) unbolt the shock and remove it ?
Obviously leave the jack in place and place the new shock
in place, bolt it down, and then release the jack ?
Thanks for your further help.
Mike
Click to expand...
Answering for Alan :wink: Yes.

Since you're only replacing the shock(s), the jack would be the preferred method, in my opinion.
 
If you decide to use the "allthread method," cut the rods at 6 inches. Screw down the nuts an equal distance on top and bottom, then use a deep socket with an air ratchet to un/screw the nuts. Otherwise, it's a tedious task to unscrew the nuts with an end wrench a couple turns at a time (I've only seen 3/8" allthread available in fine thread).
 
Mike -

I know it's safer to compress the springs or lower the spring cup, but the jack method works just fine. The main thing is just putting some big wood blocks under the chassis just in case it all goes hairy.

When you jack it up this way, be prepared that the spring will decompress a little as the lever arm length will move from the wheel to the jack.

I would also highly recommend using a decent floor jack to jack up this way, as this will drastically reduce the chance of the car slipping off the jack while you are working on the shock. Do not use any sort of bottle, scissors or shelly jack as you will have some risk of it toppling - removing the bolt from the upper link bushings can be a knuckle dragger's process.
 
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