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TR6 Removing from springs on a TR6

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SCguy

SCguy

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So I'll be starting my suspension overhall on my 74 TR6 any day. I have a spring tool to help with the front end... but does anyone have picture or great directions they can post of the tool in action. I'm having trouble visualing how it works and I think a picture would be worth a 1000 words. Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
What kind - style tool is it? There are many different types, each with different ways to use it.
 
The spring tool is simply a piece of threaded rod & washers to keep the front spring form exploding when you remove the lower spring pan bolts. You install it after you remove the front shock. You can make one for under $5.00.
If you have a Bentley or TRF Green book they show a pic of the tool.
 
SCguy.....
Just be careful that you install it properly and it can't slip, there's quite a bit of potential energy in a compressed road spring!
 
Larry,

Store bought spring compressors just won't work in the confined spaces of the front suspension. Once you remove the shock, the device I describe does the trick quite nicely.
I built my own from threaded stock, grade 8 lock nuts and washers and 2 pieces of flat iron with holes drilled thru the middle to pass the threaded rod thru. Just make sure that you are very careful. I've seen a spring compressor let go and its not pretty! If you need a diagram, feel free to email me at gibber1956@frontiernet.net.

Mark
 
Larry, my suggestion is to do the back springs instead. They're real easy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
Out of curiosity I looked up the procedure for removing the front and rear road springs in my Bentley manual.
It describes the procedure without using a spring compressor.
Is this correct?, I haven't tried to change a spring on a TR6 so don't know.
 
I did this a few weeks ago, so I’ll say how I did it.

You do need a spring compressor.. which consists of a two foot long threaded bolt with a plate that attaches to the lower a-arm plate in place of the shocks. You insert the bolt through the spring (without the shock of course) and use big washers and bolts to secure each exposed end. I got mine at TRF because I don’t have the ability to fab one myself. Here are my steps:

1. Compress the spring until the lower A-arm is roughly parallel with the ground.
2. Unbolt the lower A-arm plate from the A-arm frame.
3. VERY slowly loosen the spring compressor until the spring and the A-arm plate have no pressure on them
4. Undo the spring compressor bolts and remove the spring.

Installation of the springs is pretty much the reverse of the removal.

Email me if you have any questions.

-Shannon
 
On the same subject...it looks like one could put a jack under the shock/spring plate and hold everything in place while removing/replacing the upper inner bushings without the spring removal. Yes/no?
 
[ QUOTE ]
On the same subject...it looks like one could put a jack under the shock/spring plate and hold everything in place while removing/replacing the upper inner bushings without the spring removal. Yes/no?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, you can do this for the upper inner bushings... but I would recommend doing all of them at the same time.

-Shannon
 
I would second Shannon's statement about replacing all bushings at the same time. Makes for a better finished product. If you insist on just doing the uppers, be careful not to over-stretch or cut the brake line when you separate the upper wishbone sides from the ball joint (or the ball joint from the vertical link). The vertical link with the rotor and caliper will want to flop over.

As for the spring compressor. I will admit to using plain old corner hardware store grade threaded rod and soft nuts. It will work a few times and if lucky will only strip out instead of breaking while in use. Have since gone to a piece of treated 1/2 inch rod, grade 8 nuts and a bottom plate with holes drilled to fit the shock mount studs.
 
Shannon, I want to do them separately just to see what the dif. is but I will do all of them. I'm trying to defeat some cowl shake that I know originates in the susp. After a spirited drive down the mountain it seems the front end takes a dif. angle of attack. Steering box and linkage all rebuilt. Pat
 
Pat,
I'm not sure I understand why this approach will help, either the bushings need replacing or they don't. Actually I just replaced all suspension bushings (front and rear) in my 72 with Nylatron and the lower/inner bushings were worn the most, followed closely by the upper inners... it was metal on metal so you can imagine the racket generated on a bumpy road. I'm not sure my wear pattern was typical because I had a verticle link that was bent and required replacement. It was causing the suspension to bind when you turned the steering wheel.

My comment about replacing all bushings at once was simply aimed at time savings... I wouldn't want to take my suspension down any more if I can help it.
 
Shannon, The suspension was rebuilt some time ago and is quiet - the po overtightened the top inners causing premature wear so I thought I'd start there, I don't think the lower element would wear as quickly being dif material but could be mistaken. How does the nylatron ride? It should wear a heck of a lot longer and deal with any deflection. Did you upgrade from rubber to nylatron or did you try polyurethane prior, and if so, what dif did you notice from the urethane to nylatron? Pat
 
Pat,
I upgraded the springs/front shocks/bushings all at the same time. I'm using Goodparts springs which lower the car about an inch. To tell you the truth, I don't see a big difference (in harshness).. and the difference I do feel is probably from the shocks and springs rather than the bushings... I will tell you that the car feels "modern" car tight in the turns and that I attribute to the bushings, any sloppiness that my car had is now gone. The rear bushings are a pain to install, but more time consuming than difficult.

If you have any specific questions, I'll be happy to answer them.
 
Larry,
Have you gotten the brackets yet? They come with pretty good instructions. I shopped around and found an alignment shop that was familiar with Triumphs. Turns out he was had seen the brackets before and knew how to adjust them. He was so glad to learn I had them considering the camber adustment the old way means changing the brackets.

I got the poly spring bushings, but mine where shot... I really don't think the poly stuff is really neccessary if the ones you have are in good shape.
 
Larry, changing the rear bush is not that tough, I went with poly and went back to rubber. Didn't like the ride. A good alignment shop can adjust the rear without the GoodParts bracket. It's all in the shims. Richard's bracket is well thought out and works, but why buy something that will be adjusted once and that's it. I had an old pro alignment guy set my rear alignment after changing to comp spring and a complete new rear suspension. "Just set it and forget it". Also, the manuel does indeed show the use of a jack to change out some components on the front end. I, for one, feel that is the closes thing to suicide. The quality spring compressor you have bought (made for the TR) is a must, a snap to use and will prevent what could look like an IED going off in Baghdad. Use the device, change everything in there and move on.

Bill
 
Larry:

How did you do with the front suspension work? I'm starting mine today... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
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