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Removing damaged bolts & screws

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Re: Finally. At least the door is off.

A friend of mine mentioned the heat method so I might try that if needed. I don't have a torch so I will have to buy one.

I am planning on taking the rest of the bodywork off so I may wait to pull the floating hinge at that point. I am not sure if I have made good progress or not since starting a couple of weeks ago, but it feels pretty good to get at least one of the doors out as well as the seats. Hopefully as I gain experience, I will make less mistakes and will learn how to rebound from them if I do.

Thanks for the advice.
Don
 
Re: Finally. At least the door is off.

This may attract some flak from others, but: Upon reassembly I've found it useful to apply a ~small~ amount of anti-sieze compound on ALL fastener threads onna body of the car. Even the li'l nuts 'n studs that hold on dashpads and trim bits. The NEXT guy to take it apart may just be YOU!
 
Re: Finally. At least the door is off.

I have been using "Fluid Film" for years. It smells like bubble gum and bubbles up when it hits corrusion. We get it at a John Deer dealer. If you let it set overnight it really works.
 
Re: Finally. At least the door is off.

[ QUOTE ]
This may attract some flak from others, but: Upon reassembly I've found it useful to apply a ~small~ amount of anti-sieze compound on ALL fastener threads onna body of the car. Even the li'l nuts 'n studs that hold on dashpads and trim bits. The NEXT guy to take it apart may just be YOU!

[/ QUOTE ]

Well, you won't get any flak from me. I intend on doing the exact same thing upon re-assembly of my TR3. Especially all the body panels, and other fasteners that I had trouble removing while tearing the car apart. I had to drill out, cut off and replace too many captured fasteners to want to go through any of that again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
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