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Removing crank pulley and flywheel

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drooartz

drooartz

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Alright, how do I get these buggers off. Manual pretty much says "remove" which isn't all that helpful. What's the best way to keep the crank from rotating? Also, what size is the pulley nut?

Trying to make some progress on the 1275 this weekend -- I'd like to get it fully stripped over the next few days.
 
a decent air gun will do it in a jiff.


mark
 
If you have the pan off, stick a block of wood between one of the rods and the block. Bob
 
AIR TOOL! A 1/2" drive air wrench with the right size socket is the best/easiest way.

BUT:

You can "improvise" with some 2x4's wedged in the crankcase to keep the crank from turning (soft enough to do no damage), and a long breaker-bar and socket.

Flywheel should be easier. Undo all the bolts and pry equally around the outer edge between the flywheel and the plate in at least three points. Watch yer TOES.
 
Too bad I don't have a compressor or any air tools. I probably should invest.
 
I always have to ask... did you unbend the tab washer on that crank bolt?
 
Crank bolt is 1 5/16"
Make sure the lock tab is bent back.
Sometimes the help of the starter motor and a breaker bar will undo the bolt.
 
I haven't touched the crank bolt yet -- don't know the socket size, and don't currently have one in the collection that is right for it. I'm hoping someone will chime in so I can pick up the proper size tomorrow.

I did notice the tab washer when I was looking at the nut on the engine. I'm getting better at spotting these things.

Edit: Frank beat me to the punch. Thanks for the socket size info.
 
The "starter and breaker bar" trick is useless, as the lump is on a stand already. The 2x4's and a LONG bar may still work. And of course bend the lock-tab away first.
 
Don't spend a lot of time on it. Throw it in your truck and run it to your local tire shop and have them remove it with an impact wrench.
 
I wonder if I should just break down and get an air compressor and ratchet. It may slow the rebuild funding process a bit, but it seems like an awfully useful bit of kit.

Of course, then I've got to figure out which one. Too many options!
 
drooartz said:
I haven't touched the crank bolt yet -- don't know the socket size, and don't currently have one in the collection that is right for it. I'm hoping someone will chime in so I can pick up the proper size tomorrow.
Click to expand...

I was at Princess Auto (sort of Harbour Freight in Canada) Went to buy the socket for the crank & Oil Filter (1500) and Rear axle bearing socket. Anyway, $10 more than the three bought a whole 3/4 drive socket set. (And EVERYONE needs a 3/4 in drive /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif

In other words, cost it a little, and FWIW I LOVE my compressor. Not expensive and it is a huge help -plus it's a manly tool that makes you sound like a mechanic when you pull nuts & bolts /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cowboy.gif
 
A large cressent wrench sometimes works, I actually had to heat mine and use an impact wrench as well.
 
Don't know if this was a bad or good idea but I cut a small piece of 2" PVC about 3" long. Head off, drop it in a cyl, head back on. All hardware came right off with a wrench and a piece of steel pipe as an extension.
 
drooartz said:
I wonder if I should just break down and get an air compressor and ratchet. It may slow the rebuild funding process a bit, but it seems like an awfully useful bit of kit.

Of course, then I've got to figure out which one. Too many options!
Click to expand...

I too use an air impact wrench for the pulley and flywheel bolts.

If you plan on doing alot of LBC work a good compressor can be a life long tool. Buy the biggest you can afford, you'll always need more CFM.
 
That and don't buy only of those combo tool kits. Impact Wrenches are POS. Find something with adjustable torque settings but up to 500 ft. lbs . wrench will take care of most anything. MY POS Impact Wrench doesn't have the guts anymore to even take off a wheel lug torqued to 50 lbs. So much for Cambell-Hausfeld Cheapos.
 
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