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Removing a frozen tie rod locknut

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100DashSix

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Any advice? After trying to break it free the entire tie rod started to turn.. I'm not sure how I can keep pressure on that one nut, since everything else is turning.
 
There ~should~ be some flats along the rod someplace to secure the rod with an open-end wrench, and PB Blaster is your friend. If you've got a propane torch, MILD heat on the nut can help as well. Some swear by using candle wax: heat the nut, introduce the candle wax to the mating thread area (the butt-end of a birthday candle) and the wax will propagate into the threads... can't swear to the efficacy of this but many have said it'll work every time.
 
Use an air impact wrench if the taper is turning in the steering arm.
Or, the other alternative is to cut it off using either a nut splitter or a thin cutoff wheel.
Jeff
 
Those are interesting tips I haven't heard before.. I might have a torch laying around. As for the grip, there is a flat on the tie rod end I can grab ahold of, and when I first went to loosen the nut I used this. After a lot of pressure (and pb blaster) the whole rod actually broke free, and not the nut. In other words, the rod spins and unthreads itself inside of the end.
 
Ah, just missed that post before I replied, Bugeye. I do have an impact wrench (that can run for a few seconds on my small compressor)..I'll give that a try, too.

If I have to cut the nut off and search for a new one at a hardware store, what sort of threads should I try to find? (I'm not sure how to identify the type of threads and size..I'm guessing that this is somehow in a metric or British system)
 
Bah, bet Tony has a drawer full.
 
Plain old standard nut that you can get anywhere - cut away if necessary!
 
I thought we were talking the TIE ROD nut!!! Not the joint nut... Put the impact on the nut, and some pressure on the top of the joint. Hit it in SHORT bursts. If you can rig a clamp twixt top of balljoint and steering arm, so-much the better. Even laterally will make a difference. The nut is an SAE NF thread. Nothing exotic.
 
Doc, I don't know which nut Dash6 is dealing with. I thought you pretty well covered the tie rod nut, so I jumped in with the impact suggestion for the other one.
If in fact it's the upper nut, cut it tangential to the threads on both sides.
Jeff
 
The nut is the locknut used after adjusting the distance that the tie rod sticks out from the tie rod end. I've been able to separate the tie rod end from the wheel, but the locknut will only sit there. It sounds like I've gotten advice for each. If I can get another locknut at a local store, ("SAE NF," correct? The OD is 7/8" or 22mm it seems to me, but what is the ID?) then it sounds like a surmountable problem. Thanks for the advice!
 
Okay, okay.. let's "define" our terms here: The "tie-rod" is the longish rod from the steering rack to the "tie-rod end" or "tie-rod joint". The nut which holds the tie-rod joint to the steering arm is smaller and a bigger PITA, most times. Which are we dealing with?
 
I've been going by the terminology used in the Moss Motors catalog and Haynes. The nut in question is #18, "locknut," in the following diagram: https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29018

That nut, 7/8" OD, was holding the tie rod to the tie rod end. In my efforts to break it free, however, the entire tie rod started to turn independently of the tie rod end. I then removed the tie rod end and tried to use the impact wrench and other methods on that nut, with no luck yet.
 
Try turning it in the opposite direction just a bit. Sometimes that is enough to free it up. Then, if that fails, go after it with a bit of heat. A propane torch should be more than sufficient. Turn the steering wheel full lock to extend it away from the rack and the boot as much as possible, and perhaps drape a soaking wet rag over the tie rod in the vicinity of the boot.
Jeff
 
Success! A combination of all the previous methods finally got it off. The air wrench and propane did the trick, and in the end I just used some heavy duty vice grips to keep the tie rod from turning. Now let's see if I can get it back on without messing up my alignment. I've been measuring and counting turns, so hopefully all will be well...

Thanks for the advice.

Edit: When it reassemble, should I use anti-seize?
 
Anti-seize is fine for the application. You could use it in the taper of the steering arm too. Wipe most of it off with a paper towel. Harder to get the taper to "bite" but pressure down as you hit the nut with the air wrench usually works.

Well done.
 
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