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Removing a cam

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vping

vping

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There is a gear under the oil pump that is preventing the cam from coming out. How does in come out so I can remove the cam?
 
Sry. It is a '72 B engine.
 
You may need to remove the oil pump AND distributor.
On some engines the cam drives the oil pump and it drives the dist. on others the cam drives the dist. and it drives the oil pump. In either case it is the camshaft that drives one or the other of these mechanisms. So remove BOTH and there should be clear sailing from there.
Be extra careful not to score the cambearings with the cam lobes as you are removing it. It may require some turning of the camshaft as it is removed.
Kerry
 
The dizzy drive dog has a threaded center, I think it's a 5/16 NF thread. Screw one of the removed engine studs into it and lift it out. Oil pump is just bolts, but I thought you'd pulled it out when pulling the mains.
 
I pulled an angled tube and screen out. There sill seems to be a 2" or so thick piece of aluminum in the block that I am not sure how to get out. Is that in my way?
 
You can see a pic of it in my "New tools" thread.
 
Vince, you need to remove the entire oil pump body. You have it still in place in the photos. That'd be a large diameter (about 1"- IIRC) aluminum piece.

Stupid question (sorry): You DO have the tappets out, yes?

The only other thing I can recall holding the cam is the dizzy drive dog. It sould come out as described above.
 
err what's a tappet. JOKE. yes they are out. The oil pump body feels pretty solid but I guess the studs are tight enough that it does not wiggle at all. I'll go takeout the studs and see what that does.
Drive dog? donde?
 
The thingie you can see when looking down the hole where the dizzy mounts... small diameter hole inna middle. Thread a long stud from head or suchlike into it and draw it out. It has a helical gear at the base wot is driven by same onna cam.
 
vping said:
Drive dog? donde?
Click to expand...

Vince-

A "drive dog" is the thingy that connects the cam to the dizzy. It's tubular, about 5in long with a gear on one end and a slot on the other. It is made of unobtanium and so is the dizzy housing. As Doc said, thread a bolt into the center of it then twist it up and out.

The cam just slides right out, but be careful you dont nick the cam bearings when you remove it. It's really easy to bump into them with the lobes. If you are replacing the cam bearings, then don't worry about it.
 
Or it's the lead dog on a sled team.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
Cam removal, a montage:

Camremoval001.jpg

Camremoval002.jpg

Camremoval003.jpg

Camremoval004.jpg

Camremoval005.jpg

Camremoval006.jpg

Camremoval007.jpg
 
PAH-dump, bump!!

YAY! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

BEER TIME!
 
Bravo Zulu sir.
I've saved this thread, very valuable.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
You've run outta TP, Barry?!?!

I thought we wuz rationed... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
You may find this hard to believe but I wish I would have taken more pics of each operation. Maybe I'll put it back together and start over. We can use it in a teaching pictorial forum. I love this stuff.
 
I can tell. 'Tis a bit of fun, innit? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Vince-

Congrats!! Looks great.

Just my opinion, but I think you should "hot tank" that block. Seems like you've got rust gook *everywhere*. Do not even think about a rebuild until you get the block spotless.

Hot tanking will destroy the cam bearings (and the engine ID tag), but any decent machine shop can press new bearings in for a nominal fee. Take your (new) cam with you.

What is the rebuild plan? At a minimum, I'd line-bore the block, clean up (or rebore) the cyls and polish (or regrind) the crank. Spend a few extra $ and "index" the crank if you need to have it reground. Have the rods cleaned/shotpeened/straightened and take your pistons and have them press the gudgeon pins. Take the flywheel if you plan to have it balanced.

All of this might seem expensive now, but you'll do this one or twice in your cars life... do it right.

--Scott
 
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