removel - rear axle lug studs

[midnight]

Any suggestion for removing lug bold studs from rear axle flanges - other than pulling axles and pressing out studs - mid-night

 

[TR4nut]

For a TR3A they don't press out - they are threaded in and peened over on the back side. They are a pain..

 

[TR3driver]

 

[midnight]

O.K. - I have a problem !!!!! The studs on my front wheels are pressed-in - I have replaced these - the conversion kit for spoke wheels (Victoria British) supplied 16 press-in studs - so, I "ASSUMED", wrongly, as it turns-out, that all four wheels were the same - I have used a mirror to inspect the backsides - I see no penning marks - If they are there, I see no way to replace these without pulling the axles - I tried double nutting a stud - got no movement - AUTO RESTORATION - OH FOR THE JOY - Beer, so much more than a breakfast drink - mid-night

 

[Darrell_Walker]

If the studs on the car are too long, just install the wire wheel adapters, and cut off the excess. I believe that is a factory-recommended procedure.

 

[TR4nut]

I agree- or in my opinion, buy 1/4" spacers and keep the studs as is. You won't notice the difference with the wheels installed, and you can go back to steel/alloy rims if you want.

 

[Geo Hahn]

They aren't so much peened but swaged -- sort of mushroomed over very neatly so it can be hard to tell what they did.

As I understand it the usual method (haven't had to do it) is to remove most of the swaged material (using Dremel or angle grinder) then withdraw -- the remaining material will then flare up and more removal until finally it's free.

Me? I used the spacers. Let's me switch back to disc or alloy wheels from time to time:

 

[midnight]

Thanks to all - If the factory is cool with trimming the studs to length - it's works for me - the spacer is a good idea too - mid-night - BEER, so much more than a breakfast drink -