TR2/3/3A Remove Rear End from TR3

[Earl]

Folks,
This weekend I'd like to change out the rearend of my 61TR3A. I have the replacement all ready to install. I'd like some suggestions on the best (similiest) way to chenge them. I've tried a search and I must have done something wrong as I got no finds. Thanks for you help.
Earl

 

[DougF]

The simplest way the to swap out a rear end would be to have a shop do it for you. If you belong to a Triumph Club, if it is anything like ours, hint that there will be food and beer available when asking for help, and you should have plenty of knowledgable and helpful people show up. If you are lucky, you'll get as dirty as you would have taking it to a shop.

 

[martx-5]

Is the body on or off the car. It's a lot simpler if it's off. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

Assuming it's on...Also assuming it's the whole rear axle assembly.

1. Jackstands adjacent to the forward spring eyes. Make sure they are high enough because the axle is coming out the bottom.
2. Drain the axle and brakes...remove the driveshaft
3. Disonnect the handbake cable at the lever on the axle.
4. Disconnect the flex brake line.
5. Disconnect the brake tube at the drum backing plate along with the handbrake clevis pin at the backplate.
6. There are bolts at the back of the axle flange that attach the drum, hub, back plate assembly. Remove those and detach the hubs, axle shafts, drums, back plate as an assembly.
7. Remove the bump straps. Jack up each spring until the axle rebound rubbers are clear of the frame. Remove the U-bolts. Let the plates hang on the damper links. Remove the jack.
8. Release the tailpipe mounting from chassis. Feed the axle over the left-hand side of the chassis. Lower the right side of the axle and move it rearward to allow the axle tube to pass beneath the chassis. Pull the sucker out.

This set of instructions is from a Clymer shop manual. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

 

[Banjo]

(My only advice to add is to make sure the doors fit before welding everything in place. I would really do the splice with the body on the frame, and the doors on the body.)
~edit~
Please ignore all this. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
It was late, and for some reason I thought you ment the back half of the body. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I was just leafing through body repair section in my "how to restore a TR3" book.
I think that's what had me thinking about that.

 

[Mkutz]

I recently took mine off to have it rebuilt by TRF. The end plates won't clear the space betwen the frame and the trunk floor (body). Either the body has to pushed up about 6-8 inches, or those end plates need to come off (I don't know if they can or not, Since I'm doing a body off any way, I just lifted up the body while the rear end was removed. Good Luck!

 

[Banjo]

OK, on the proper topic.
Best method without removing the body is to Drain the axle fluid, then remove both rear brake backing plates. They have 6 bolts in each, and the hub, bearing, backing plate, and axle shaft will all come out as one (more or less)
Then unhook all the rear axle connection points. Driveshaft, brake lines, shocks, and leaf springs.
Then, making sure the car is lifted a good ways off the floor, slide the axle to one side till the end of the other side will drop down past the frame rail, then slide the whole assembly out that way (between the frame rails). You should also remove the limiter loops on each frame rail for extra clearance
If I could draw it it would look like a sideways "V"
You will most likely need to get the exhaust out of the way to gain enough clearance to tilt the axle down.
Good luck Guv'na.
Its a tight fit.