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Relining brake shoes

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ichthos

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I need some information of relining brake shoes. If I have the linings and rivets, are there any special tools I would need to do this, or is this something I should stay away from since I have not done it before? Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 
Back in the days when this was the normal thing to do, there was a special riveting tool. With the right tools, it wasn't difficult to do. I haven't seen one for almost 50 years, though. Bonded linings came along, and riveted linings were considered obsolete by the mid-60s, anyway.

I have a hard time seeing any good reason to revert to riveted shoes, and in view of the fact that it's your brakes we're talkin' about, I'd suggest just getting a set of new shoes with the usual bonded linings.
 
I am running shoes that I riveted new linings to but I have the old tools. You would need a riveting punch at the least. I have the cast iron lever tool as well and used both. Have several sets of good ol Ferodo asbestos linings I bought on e-bay. The same ones J Sprinzel liked.

Kurt.
 
My concession to modernity: get a set of bonded shoes, fit 'em up and flog the dear thing unmercifully. :wink:
 
Shoes are cheep. Get em from Moss even, or your friendly auto store.
 
I have a funny story about relined brake shoes. When I was in high school a buddy bought some relined brake shoes for an old buick. The lining was really thick and didn't want to go on no matter how we tried, (front wheel) we were poor, one wheel needs brake shoes, that is all that gets shoes.
Anyways, we finally got the hub on enough that we could use the lug nuts and get it on all the way, then back them off and get the wheel back on.
When we tried the move the car, the front wheel just skidded across the pavement.
Two people setting on the front fender and the tire began to turn.
We drove it around in a big parking lot and it was getting dark and you could see the hub glowing.
Finally we got it to where it would trun without anyone setting on the fender.
We pile in and take off down the road about 2 miles and stop at a red light and it completely catches on fire at that point. We had some antifreeze in the trunk in a jug and use that to put it out. (plumes of smoke). We take off again and it caught on fire again and we put it out again.
After that it worked fine for years. You got to wonder how the grease in the wheel bearings survived that and what was it, exactly that was burning.
From then on I only bought store brand brake shoes. I did have some brake shoes relined for a camper that shoes were no longer available for.
I think I have 20 bucks for all 4 shoes for the rear of the Midget. Not worth fooling with relining.
 
Well, I agree, new shoes are cheap----but whats the fun in that!!
I was mainly looking for anything that would improve braking without spending an arm and leg.
Still looking!

Kurt.
 
Well, take your shoes up to Brake and Clutch in Seattle (next to where the brewery for Rainier used to be next to I-5), have them reline them with A-B linings.
When they did away with asbestos, we would do old cars with off-the-shelf linings, and even with two feet on the pedal, hardly stopped.
I do ALL old Fords, even early Mustangs with those linings now.
Worth the trip.
 
Softer. They stop. New stuff off-the-shelf are HARD......
 
We've done the same with many old Rollies: A-B lining, at a truck brake & clutch repair house. They would usually do 'em "while-U-wait" too. It beat th' heck outta five times the cost, shipping and a looong wait. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the information. In your opinion, if the A-B lining is safer in that it stops the car quicker, why is this not offered by any of the major British parts companies? I would guess that the A-B linings wear faster? Personally I would rather my brakes performed better even if they wore out quicker if that is the case. Do shops normally take off the old lining, or is this something I am expected to do before I take them in? If so, how do you remove the old material? Because the new linings are much harder, do they tend to wear out the brake drums faster?
Kevin
 
I don't know what the Brit Companies offer. All I know is, you go buy something at your local parts house, be prepared.

In the old days, there was a line called "Mountain Master", I think it was, that WOULD stop the car....but wore out four times faster.
Softer linings generally equates to faster wear.

But not sure what you need, other than new linings. I don't think I've used over-the-counter drum brake shoes in 15 years. Power disc, yes, but not shoes.

On relining.....before you start, know what you're doing. Takes a "touch" to get the tight yet not fracture the lining material. You haven't lived until you have one come loose on a winding mountain road.

Another thing......riveted is actually better for fade than bonded.
The gasses have a place to go (rivet recess) other than floating your lining. You could always tell when riveted lings got worn, as there was no longer any place for the gasses, and they started fading....at least as I recall.
 
Kevin, I feel like you're making this complicated - it's a Sprite, get the Moss brakes and drive the wheels off the car, they stop just fine! (If you want the adventure of riveting, I MIGHT have a Practical Classics article I could scan.)
 
regularman said:
I have a funny story about relined brake shoes. When I was in high school a buddy bought some relined brake shoes for an old buick. The lining was really thick and didn't want to go on no matter how we tried, (front wheel) we were poor, one wheel needs brake shoes, that is all that gets shoes.
Anyways, we finally got the hub on enough that we could use the lug nuts and get it on all the way, then back them off and get the wheel back on.
When we tried the move the car, the front wheel just skidded across the pavement.
Two people setting on the front fender and the tire began to turn.
We drove it around in a big parking lot and it was getting dark and you could see the hub glowing.
Finally we got it to where it would trun without anyone setting on the fender.
We pile in and take off down the road about 2 miles and stop at a red light and it completely catches on fire at that point. We had some antifreeze in the trunk in a jug and use that to put it out. (plumes of smoke). We take off again and it caught on fire again and we put it out again.
After that it worked fine for years. You got to wonder how the grease in the wheel bearings survived that and what was it, exactly that was burning.
From then on I only bought store brand brake shoes. I did have some brake shoes relined for a camper that shoes were no longer available for.
I think I have 20 bucks for all 4 shoes for the rear of the Midget. Not worth fooling with relining.
Click to expand...

Kim, that's some funny stuff right there. Reminds me of one of my boating friends. I saw him bouncing up and down on his boat trailer last summer while his wife slowly pulled the trailer down the road, leaving a nice black streak as they went. He was trying to unstick the brake caliper, and he's way too cheap to pay a mechanic. One of those penny-wise stories; he finally got the brakes free, but flat-spotted the tire.
 
TOC:
I'm half a continent away from your brake guys. Suppose a truck place locally would have AB linings that would fit spridget shoes?

Kurt.
 
Thanks for the advice, JP, but I am enjoying learning a great deal by the conversation. My Bugeye is drivable right now. I am at the point where I just like having backups for high use parts. In addition, my wife will be driving this car the most, which makes me even more concerned about making it as safe as possible while trying to keep it stock at the same time. This whole issue started because I saw an ebay add for brake linings/shoes. As always, things are not as simple as I had thought.
Kevin
 
ichthos said:
As always, things are not as simple as I had thought.
Kevin
Click to expand...

sure they are we just like making them complicated.
grin.gif
course that's why you fit in so well.
 
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