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rejetting the carbs

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healeyboz

healeyboz

Jedi Knight
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I talked to Hap yesterday and I need to start thinking about possibly running a leaner jet. Any good sources for jets??? Like a website so that I can see what is available and read descriptions...

Any precautions or suggestions about this job? I usually figure it out as I go along, but since she is at least running, I would hate for her to be down awhile because I made a silly mistake.
 
"""""need to start thinking about possibly running a leaner jet. Any good sources for jets??? """

and the carburetor(s) that you are using are?

if SU's which ones (HS2, 4...) and which needle is in the carb now.
 
Joe Curto is the best person to contact. His # is (718)762-SUSU (7878) https://www.joecurto.com/. My list for HS2 fixed needles is: from lean to richer: AN, M, V3(very close to M), H6, V2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, MME, BG. I have WinSU which has all the needle profiles if you'd like me to compare some for you.
 
Thanks fellas. I want to get a good guess as to what I need before I take out the ones I have. I don't know what are in there. Hap thinks they might be 3s but obviously does a lot of these and did mine last year. I guess it is time to break into the carbs and figure out exactly how SUs work. :smile:
Maybe Joe can give me a place to start with knowing what I have done with the motor and what is happening right now.
 
Two screws, pull the domes, lift out the piston which has the needle attached to the bottom, one screw to remove the needle.
 
Okay, so apparently tyou leave the jet and mess with the needles. Looks like I have some reading to do!!

p.s. I talked to Joe--Great guy.

I know just about every inch of this car and opted to have hap build these carbs for me. Guess it is time to lear every inch. including carbs. :smile:
 
Yep, changing your needles will take about 5 minutes on both carbs top, the #3 works on most the cars, pretty much the same as the AN until you get to the upper stages, what needle did you get from Joe, Ans or #1s ?

Just remove the dashpots, make sure you intall them in same orientation as they were removed ( this is very important), then remve the the piston return spring you'll see as soon as the dashpot is removed, then pull the piston out, you'll see the brass needle sicking out the bottom of, it, look on the side of the piston, you'll see a brass set screw that retins the needle ( pay attention to where the needle is mounted, it mounted right where the round shank part of it ends and the taper begins) loosen the brass set screw, pull the needle out, repalce with the new needle, tighten the set screw, put everything back together as you took it aprt, your just height should be about .070 dwon form the bridge, so that should be a good starting point for the AN or #1 needles.
 
Thanks Hap. I didn't order anything from him. I have to see what is in there. I know you said that you thought it was 3, just want to make sure that is what is in there before I waist any-one's time of sending me more needles. I think I will have to pull them out to see what they are and put them back in until I get the new ones. I would hate to not have the car running while I wait on the mail. :smile: Do I need to replace the dashpot gasket while I am at it or will it be okay to reuse?
 
There is a gasket on the cap/damper of a dashpot. ... I think.
 
Yup. A thin fibre narrow gasket. Two with every conversion set back in the day. Usually a faded red colour. :wink:
 
DrEntropy said:
Yup. A thin fibre narrow gasket. Two with every conversion set back in the day. Usually a faded red colour. :wink:
Click to expand...

Yes, but pot metal to pot metal on the bottom. I see no need to change the top ones if only replacing the needles. Unless they are very old and screwed up when topping up the oil.

And the next section will go to?

Whats in your pot? :wink:

My pot is empty :wink:
 
I have a secret brew in mine that guarantees a 5 hp gain!

Want to buy some? :wink:
 
Only need to change those gaskets if they are broken really.
 
LOL
 
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