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Reinstalling Brake Hubs and Wheel Hubs in Rear.

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Is there a special trick to getting the Wheel Hubs and Brake Hubs to align. On DS Wheel bearing will not fit on the axle. I will get out some emery cloth and work to get it to fit. But that same bearing fits flush on the PS no issues. But when I try fitting the Hub Assembly on the PS it seems like it is getting hung up on the Brake Hub. So I'm guessing the procedure is to leave the Brake Hub Bolts loos as you are fitting the Hub and Wheel Bearing. Manual does not mention that.

I was able to push the well lubed but not too much Axle Seal into place and finished with a tap from a 2" PVC Pipe. Wheel bearing again lubed up and used the old bearing to tap with 5 lb hammer into place. Well tapped firmly I should say but it appears bearing is flush with the hub. If there is any difference it is very, very slight and gasket will make up the difference. So Guys what's the trick to getting these hubs seated correctly.
 
Just watched Mini Mania Video on reinstalling but they make it look easy. Appears trick is to put end of axle on the ground and pound. But I also noticed I've got bolts for backing plate to axle on backwards. Time to fix and clean up with emery paper. And they install complete brakes before they put on the axle. should have watched this earlier.
 
Jim
Just my 2 cents from doing this a bunch of times
Yes, brake backing plate bolts are unidirectional and the plates should be bolted on solid before the hub is installed.
The bearing is pressed into the hub and the whole assembly is put onto the axle stub
Yes it is easier to install brake shoes before the Wheel hubs but it is 50-50 on doing this.
Remember that the bearing races are not supposed to turn. The old hubs tend to get a but oversized so I generally add some Locktite bearing retaining compound (green?) when pressing the bearing into the hub.
Pounding??? Maybe the wrong term, I use a 1 3/8 inch socket to tap (OK sometimes some hard hits) the hub assy onto the stub axle.
As I said the races are not supposed to turn so is a press fit onto the axle.
If you are really pounding then something is wrong. The stub needs to be clean and smooth.
Also, regarding the 1 7/8 socket for the axle nut. The nut is very thin and the tightening torque is very high. There is a tendency due to the rounded face of the socket for the socket to slip off the nut and sometimes damage it
The thing is to grind the face of the socket so there is a flat surface to give a better hold on the nut.
 
Thanks Joe,
on the DS I could not get the old bearing or new , both loose and not installed to fit on the hub. Both bearings slid fairly easily onto the PS hub. I did some sanding of the hub and now the old bearing will fit with some persuading. Now I think new bearing will slip on. Until I sanded there was no way it was going on there. And yes I am using a 207FF sealed wheel bearings.
 
Jim
The bearing should not easily slip into the hub. It needs to be a tight fit. Races are not supposed to move only the balls between races. I suggest that you use some Locktite bearing retaining compound between the bearing and the hub when doing the final assembly.
BTW it appears that a lot of people are going over to the sealed bearings. I used them with my Double bearing hubs 5 years back but the thought back then was to replace every season. Most modern cars use sealed bearings. Does any one have any history on the long term use of the Sealed bearings for our 60 YO
 
Joe, I was able to get the bearing installed in both wheel hubs today. Race is tight on both Axle Hubs. And bearing will not be moving inside of the wheel Hub. Ordered a Circlip Tool from Spridget Mania today. Was going to use a Wavy Washer and a C Clip but C Clip didn't feel substantial enough to bet my life on after installing it on the Wheel Cylinder. So $30 with shipping will get a Circlip Tool I know works to me this week and I can finish getting this rear end together.

Re Sealed Bearings - Lots of people using and putting 1,500-2,000 miles a year on these cars unless you are going racing is not going to put a lot of stress on them. Long Term I will be moving to rear discs using the Creative Spridgets Kit but wanted to put things back together with upgraded Wheel Cylinders and backing plates and Front Discs. And to fix the major axle seal leak as wheel seals were totally toast. New EN17 Axles will replace the OEM BE Axles along with a 3.9 Diff already installed.
 
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