• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Red idiot light on bright - ideas?

Share this page

I hate to use this pun but... when it rains it pours.

When you take the alternator in for testing be sure to buy a new warning lamp bulb at the same time. As I believe was stated on the first page of this thread, the bulb has to work for the alternator to start charging. Hopefully the parts store will have the bulb you need. If not, temporarily borrow one from something else behind the dash that's not quite as necessary... like the high-beam indicator lamp (which is probably the same size).
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]the bulb has to work for the alternator to start charging[/QUOTE]

Is this true if it's not a Lucas alternator?
I have a feeling that whatever alternator came with the Nissan motor was the one the PO used.
I'm wondering because the bulb blew out and I still drove it this morning with lights on bright, electric cooling fan running, wipers wiping & heater fan running.
No dimming of anything was noticed.
 
The charge warning light is necessary for Lucas systems. Most of the GM (10SI, 12SI) alternators require it as well. I cannot say with certainty that this applies to the Nipondenso alternators.

The only way to tell for sure what's going on with the warning light burned out is to monitor a volt meter while you drive. If you don't see the system voltage come "up" a volt or more with the engine running, you are drawing on the battery without recharging it. Years ago I had a friend whose MGB had a bad generator. He could drive for about 2 days before the battery was pulled down too low for the car to operate.

EDIT: I'm sure that your charging system is not exactly like the information in the link below but the basic information in the link should apply as Nissan's common practice.
https://www.nissanforums.com/b13-91-94-chassis/108499-charging-system-faqs.html
 
Thanks for that link, informative stuff there!
 
I read the article about the Nissan charging system.
That sounds like what you all have been saying.

<span style="font-weight: bold">However...</span>

I drove it to work this morning with all the lights, fans & wipers going. I drove it home & parked it, let it cool down.
I just came in from looking at the thing again:

I metered the battery with everything off - 13.03 VDC

Started the car, turned headlights on bright - 12.45 VDC
So far, in line with what everybody says - seems like the alternator isn't charging.

Revved up to about 2500 rpm - voltage: 14.4 VDC
Revved up to 4000 - voltage: 15.3 VDC
Let fall back to idle - voltage: 13.4 VDC

WTH is happening here? It obviously doesn't need the light bulb to kick in & start charging.

I'm so confused now. :cryin:

It also seems like my Alternator is working just fine - what else will cause the bulb to glow bright enough to burn out after only about 30 minutes of driving?
 
Wrong bulb? Naaaaa.
 
When the voltage drifts over a wide range, it's my understanding that indicates a problem with the alternator's internal regulator.

When the weather improves, take the alternator to the parts store for bench testing.
 
Its hard to say whats going on or how exactly that alternator works with the conversion. Ive seen PO's wiring things that when a fuse blew would it would overcharge or a bad groung melt brake cables! With all else it did work for quite a while normally so I would suspect the alternator is messing something up. An increase in voltage would be the first suspect for bright and blowing bulbs. I generally dont prefer to see outputs over 15. 14.7 is my idea number. be particular to see if the battery smells after a bit of a ride or lift the hood and shut everything down to see if its boiling....
 
Do remember that the Datsun210 usually used an alternator with an external voltage regulator and it sounds to me like the regulator is questionable. I personally would find the regulator and swap in a new one (cheapest "Shucks" one that I could find) and go from there.
Bill
 
Thanks Bill, I have looked but not found one.
Maybe thats something else you can help me with when we get together to install my new top?
 
Take the alternator to the parts store and get the free check out.
 
Well... if it has an external regulator... take the car to the parts store with the alternator bolted in, not just the regulator.

Sorry... I forgot about the years when cars had alternators but the regulator was still external.
 
BillM & I fiddled around with it a bit yesterday and determined it does have an internal regulator that just plain isn't working.

I took a core in with a printout from PartsAmerica.com today & got about 30% off their regular price!
I'll get the new alternator tomorrow, a 60 amp unit.

BTW - in case you didn't know PartsAmerica.com is related to Checker, Schucks etc and by simply printing out their parts info page and taking it to the store you get the online price.
 
At one time PartsAmerica was a bunch of retail stores, not just an online entity. They bought up Western Auto back about 15-20 years ago, closed them all down, then merged with the conglomerate that you mentioned above... and closed the PartsAmerica stores. Around here, our retail stores that are part of the chain are Advance Auto.
 
Back
Top