• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Recovering door top-rails.

Nunyas

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Hey all,

I've been thinking about recovering the door top rails on my '76 myself (versus buying new ones or paying an apolsterer to do it). Are there any special considerations I should make before purchasing the vinyl to do this with? The padding and wood seem to still be in reusable shape. I'm mainly wondering if I wonder into some fabric shop is there any specific grade of vinyl I should be looking to use, or will any ole vinyl be fine?
 
I had a friend of mine copy the wood portion in red oak.(all my wood working tools where stored). Anyway, I finished them and put them on. Yea, they look real good. As for oyur question, you should purchase a good quality vynl with a backing. Material with some sort of grain or smooth, it's up to you. Good Luck /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Look for the closest match to the grain pattern in the original, and thinner is better for the side rails/interior panels: preferrably a cloth backed type. We found the stuff we're using at "JoAnn Fabrics" at a bargain price. Made the piuping using "weed whacker" (065") string as the correct diameter core. Core diameter will vary depending on the material thickness, in order to get the right diameter piping as a final product. The short piping on the original rails was of a solid plastic and thus is likely to be reusable on yours. If your wood is still good, I'd recommend taking the extra time now and sealing it with a good marine grade paint as well, before recovering.

HTH
 
Use the best spray adhesive available. I found black vinyl at JoAnnes Fabric that was a very close match for the top rails on my Healey, but their spray adhesive was not very good and didn't hold well. Redid it with adhesive from Home Depot.
 
FWIW: I've used all sorts and keep goin' back to Weldwood Contact cement. Bit of a PITA to apply (brush on) BUT it seems to be the best bond of all.

Works on everything from the kitchen cabinets to interiors on LBC's! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
You also might try 3-M adhesive spray. I've used it with very good results. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
not staples? The last time I pulled my top rails off I recall seeing staples holding the vinyl to the structure...
 
They (BMC/Leyland) didn't use glue. You could put 'em in for extra insurance, but the Weldwood adhesive works well by itself.
 
hmmmmm... I have some Gorilla glue laying around... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

only problem with that stuff is it takes a little while to set up, but it's better than super glue 'cause it holds just as well and you can wash it off your skin before you glue your fingers together... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Great stuff fer woodworking but contact adhesive is what to use for upholsering. Added fun is ungluing yer fingers after the job's done: mineral spirits works well, or you could just let it wear off...

Keyboard use is a bit tricky that way tho.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif fingers get glued to the "home keys"? heh
 
Naahhh... I put a "membrane" of Saran Wrap over th' keyboard onna GPU (Garage Processing Unit).

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
If you want to be sure the grain matches, both Moss and VB sell vinyl by the yard. I bought some to recover my door caps, since matching Autumn Leaf locally might be a bit of a problem.

Also, I used contact cement AND staples. The staples help hold the vinyl as you stretch it into place...
 
I just did mine as part of an entire interior kit from Prestige. I used both 3M spray adhesive and staples. By the way, the vinyl that Prestige supplied was much thicker than the original stuff. It made tucking the ends under and stapling them much more difficult than you would imagine. It's done now, however, and looks great.
 
Went to an auto upolstry shop who wanted $80 to cover mine. No way was I going to pay that. JoAnn Fabrics had what I needed for 8 bucks and still have enough left over for a third. Definately use staples and glue. I reused the little strip next to the vent window.
Good Luck
Rick
 
I took mine to an upolstry shop to have them recovered with the material provided in the moss interior kit. Cost was 25 dollars which was his minimal fee. The guy had just done a set on his B and knew exactly what to do.
 
Back
Top