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Rebuilt 1500

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jcatnite

jcatnite

Jedi Knight
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I have an opportunity to purchase a 1500 (year unknown) that was rebuilt a few years ago but never installed in a car. Supposedly it is bored .020" over, crank polished, and head reworked with unleaded seats. The engine has never been run and has sat covered in storage for what he calls a "few" years. What do you guys think is a fair price? And are there anythings that I need to look out for? If I do buy it, is there anyway to run the oil pump with a drill since it has sat for so long. I don't want to spin it with the bearings dry.
Thanks,
JC
 
JC,

I know on my 1500 rebuild, I've got:
$350.00 - Machine work (hot tanked, bored .020, decked, crank turned .010 and balanced, small end rod bushings replaced, etc.)
$200.00 - Head work (seats, 3 angle valve grind, head trued, reassembled)
$200.00 - .020 oversided pistons
$ 40.00 - double valve springs
$310.00 - street performance cam
$200.00 - vernier timing chain set
$ 60.00 - bearings
$ 50.00 - gasket sets
----------
$1,400.00 + for a complete rebuild

as for spinning the oil pump, I don't think it's possible without removing the distributor and the cam gear. After that, you can get to the oil pump shaft easily. However, spinning the oil pump without the distributor in the car is going to prove MESSY. I haven't tried this (and I'll have to before I fire my motor for the first time).
 
I always spin the oil pumps in domestic engines that I have rebuilt. Especially if it takes me a long time to get them installed. It does make a mess but it is good to know that you have oil on the bearings and up to the top of the head. I just didn't know if you could reach the oil pump drive shaft on these little engines. As far as the cost goes, I doubt that this has a new cam and definitely doesn't have a vernier timing chain set. Also it has set for quite sometime so I'm sure that I'll still have to dissassemble it, relube the bearings and cam, and hone the cylinders as they have probably rusted a bit. So this won't be a drop it in and fire it up type deal. I'm curious as to why you went with the double valve springs. I've heard that they might not be the best way to go over here in the states.
JC
 
I went with the double valve springs at the recommendation of the machine shop due to the lift/duration on the cam I purchased. The cam I bought has a .270 duration with a .410 lift. The only problem I've heard of may be getting the car to pass smog due to the valve overlap. But, a little trick with that is to back the rocker arms off. You get some valve chatter, but because the valves cannot open as deeply, the car should pass the smog test. Then, you just re-adjust the rockers back to spec. A bit of a pain, but it's only once a year.

And as for disassembling a rebuilt motor... I'd doubt that this is necessary. I'd first try spinning the oil pump to lube the bearings, then place a squirt or so of oil in each cylinder. Then crank the engine over by hand. If the engine moves freely, no problem. If the engine was stored with the head on and spark plugs in the head, you shouldn't have any rust. I've seen engines stored outdoors for 10 years like this and they were just fine.
 
I hope your right about the rust. I should find out the condition of the cylinder walls tomorrow. I think I read some where that the double valve springs caused excessive wear without any significant return on stock cams. Since you have a more exotic cam the double springs are probably warranted. I have reservations using them in a daily driver but in race motors that see higher revs they are certainly necessary.
JC
 
I made a driveshaft to spin the oil pump with a reversible drill. It's a piece of 1/2" round stock, about 8" long, turned down at one end to fit the drill chuck, and has an approximately 3/16" tang milled on the other end to fit the slot in the pump. You have to remove the distributor and drive gear to do it, and I can get 80 psi with my cordless drill.
If you want, I'll run out and measure it, and give you exact dimensions.
BTW, the pump spins counter-clockwise. You will be able to make sure you are getting oil to the rocker shaft at the same time you are pre-lubing the engine.
Either mark the gear, or remember it's exact position before you remove it, replace it the same way, and everything should fall right back together.
Jeff
 
I'm glad to know that I wasn't way out in left field on this one. I had planned to remove the distributor gear and fashion a shaft that would fit right on the oil pump shaft but a longer one that will fit in the pump is cool too. If you have time measurements would be great and a picture would be even greater if you have the time. I just can't see spinning any engine that has been sitting without doing this.
Thanks,
JC
 
JC, I'm at work right now, but will measure everything when I get home, and post the pertinent details. Can't do a picture, unfortunately, but it's very simple.
The driveshaft actually fits into the slot on the pump shaft, and the extra length is just to clear everything up top, The pump shaft sits down below the distributor a good bit, so the extra length comes in handy.
Jeff
 
JC, just got home, so here's what I measured. The rod measures .490, but 1/2" may work. This was just a piece of 304 Stainless I had lying around. It's 7.250" overall length, with the first 1.250 turned down to .370 so it fits a 3/8" drill chuck. At the business end, I machined a tang to fit the pump shaft. The tang measures .150 across the flats, and the flat portion is .250 long. I side milled it with a .250 mill, so there's a radius to it where it blends to the shank. Hope you can work with this.
Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff, I've got my graphic designer working on it right now...lol. Seriously though that is very helpful and I plan to make one of them.
The engine turned out to not be the complete engine that I was thinking it was. It is basically a shortblock and a rebuilt head. No timing sprokets, or cover, no oil pan, the oil pump is the one with the angled pickup. The head has been reworked but I'm unsure if it is set-up for unleaded or not. There is no rocker assembly, no dizzy, no oil filter adapter...etc. I was thinking it was a bit more complete that it turned out to be. The internals didn't look too corroded but there was a bit of surface rust on a few things. I think I may have to revise the thoughts on how much it is worth to me. I have a good core to rebuild in my midget right now. Might just have to take that option.
JC
 
That's what I thought too. Thanks man...looks like I'm gonna be pulling the one I have all apart and rebuilding it myself.
JC
 
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