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TR2/3/3A Rebuilding suspension

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Marmoset54

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Hey guys (and the rare girl),

I am rebuilding my suspension and currently have the body off the frame.

I currently am planning on replacing all bushings with super pro bushings, utilizing the Magic Kit front end suspension from TRF, using ADDCO front anti sway bar, and revington’s improved geometry kit.

Is there anything SUSPENSION wise that should be done? I’d like to button this up and move on.

thanks!
 
I looked, but cannot find what the "magic" kit includes. Are you referring to a basic rebuild or upgrade when you ask about "suspension"...and are you asking just front, or rear also?
 
CJD said:
I looked, but cannot find what the "magic" kit includes. Are you referring to a basic rebuild or upgrade when you ask about "suspension"...and are you asking just front, or rear also?
Click to expand...
Hey ya,

Stock number on TRF is RFK1120

I am merely asking for suspension right now. Steering as well if I am thinking on it.
 
If you are doing the suspension you should also either repack or replace the front bearings.
The TRF kit is a good way to go.
Charley
 
Since you have the body off I would encourage you to do a thorough inspection of the front suspension towers for cracked welds or cracks in the metal surrounding the welds. Check the upper and lower fulcrum pins. The suspension arms attach to these and are susceptible to wear from the old bushings and rust. Check all suspension components, drag link, tie rod ends, ball joints, vertical link, trunnion, steering box, shocks, springs. Don't over look anything. I would also suggest you check the frame using the procedure in the Bentley service manual to make sure it is not bent or twisted as this will also affect the suspension. The rear suspension components are equally important. Take your time, do your research, don't scrimp on this area, the way your car drives depends on it. Frank
 
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Frank Canale said:
Since you have the body off I would encourage you to do a thorough inspection of the front suspension towers for cracked welds or cracks in the metal surrounding the welds. Check the upper and lower fulcrum pins. The suspension arms attach to these and are susceptible to wear from the old bushings and rust. Check all suspension components, drag link, tie rod ends, ball joints, shocks, springs. Don't over look anything. I would also suggest you check the frame using the procedure in the Bentley service manual to make sure it is not bent or twisted as this will also affect the suspension. The rear suspension components are equally important. Take your time, do your research, don't scrimp on this area, the way your car drives depends on it. Frank
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice! I've looked at the towers and they seem good. Suspension arms were well taken care of. This car was halfway put together (front and rear suspension) before I bought it. The front suspension was dismantled for reasons I do not know. The Magic kit provides all new parts for the front suspension. Concerning the frame, it is in good shape. My mechanic who is working on my 6 inspected it and said good to go. The PO said something about maybe a 3/4" difference but that was either his mistake or legit. regardless, its within tolerances.

Will be getting new koni shocks and probably new springs now.
 
I may be dense...still can't find the kit. "Suspension" is a pretty wide term, and I am still not sure what your goal is. Are you upgrading or just going back to original? I would recommend you search the archives, as there are many great threads with a lot of details.
 
My recommendation is to up grade the trunnions to tr4a and add the latter upper arms & balljoints.
This greatly improves handling by adding some castor. I prefer to go to Wilwood brakes for improved
braking/handling. Stainless flex pipes fresh lines are a must.
Try to have the chassis as it was the day the body was set onto it, motor and all. Easier to install
all the many little things with the body off.
Mad dog
 
mctriumph said:
My recommendation is to up grade the trunnions to tr4a and add the latter upper arms & balljoints.
This greatly improves handling by adding some castor. I prefer to go to Wilwood brakes for improved
braking/handling. Stainless flex pipes fresh lines are a must.
Try to have the chassis as it was the day the body was set onto it, motor and all. Easier to install
all the many little things with the body off.
Mad dog
Click to expand...
classicmotorsports.com

Turn, Triumph, Turn

We make adjustments to the rudimentary Triumph TR3 suspension and share our secrets with you.
classicmotorsports.com classicmotorsports.com

So I am thinking about this article and its advice…
 
Hi, Sounds like you are going down the same path I did with my TR3a. Here's my experience;

If you are keeping stock wheels and tires sizes you realy don't need to change anything. I run 195/60 -15 tires on 5.5" alloy wheels and a couple of changes made a BIG difference.

1. You mentioned Revingtons suspension kits. The Revington adjustable upper control arm Fulcrum kit needs the late TR-4 thru TR-6 Upper control arm and ball joint. Its wider that the stock pivot and it comes with shims to prevent binding, you dont need the "Jag" ball joint. You will also need the late TR-4, 3 degree Trunnions. They work with the stock TR-3 uprights. I also needed the TR-4a to TR-6 caliper brake line kit to prevent the hydraulic hose from hitting the control arm. That all worked OK with stock TR-6 wheels. When I got the 8 spoke alloys, I had to put a 1/4" spacer between the wheel and the hub for control arm clearance. Longer wheel studs were also needed.
2. Revington has a kit to correct the Acherman Geometry. It moves the outer tie-rod end out and down, also correcting the bump steer. This works great, but only if you use wider, low aspect tires. I don't think a stock tire would benefit.
3. If you use TR-4a to TR-6 Uprights and trunnions, they will lower the front of the car by about 1.5". How you lower the back of a street TR-3 by the same amount, I don't know.

Good Luck, Roy
 
I went with the nylon Delrin front steering bushings. I also had my steering box professionally rebuilt by Macy's garage. I too went with the super pro suspension bushings. I've been VERY pleased with the way the steering and ride quality is. The steering is firm with no slop at all. One thing I did learn is that the rear shocks blew out on me in the first 1000 miles (stock type from Moss) - I upgraded to heavy duty versions from Apple Hydraulics and that problem is all fixed.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Joel
 
Joel Lester said:
I went with the nylon Delrin front steering bushings. I also had my steering box professionally rebuilt by Macy's garage. I too went with the super pro suspension bushings. I've been VERY pleased with the way the steering and ride quality is. The steering is firm with no slop at all. One thing I did learn is that the rear shocks blew out on me in the first 1000 miles (stock type from Moss) - I upgraded to heavy duty versions from Apple Hydraulics and that problem is all fixed.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Joel
Click to expand...
And you needed the heavy duty, why? Are they better than the standard?
 
Because the brand new stock ones become completely useless in less than than 1000 miles. When I took them off the car there was no resistance at all - the shock arm lever was just loosely moving. I wasn't driving the car at the track either - just normal driving on country roads.
 
One of the things I regret not doing while body was off frame was removing and reinstalling the rear spring mount bolts.If you ever decide to change rear springs freeing up this bolt before the body is on makes things much easier.
Tom
 
Marmoset54 said:
Hey guys (and the rare girl),

I am rebuilding my suspension and currently have the body off the frame.

I currently am planning on replacing all bushings with super pro bushings, utilizing the Magic Kit front end suspension from TRF, using ADDCO front anti sway bar, and revington’s improved geometry kit.

Is there anything SUSPENSION wise that should be done? I’d like to button this up and move on.

thanks!
Click to expand...
If you still have access check the steering box for play, and shim properly.
 
Just had service to replace all front bushing and new spindles. Rebuilt the steering box. They tried to shim it the best they could. They said that any more shim adjustment made the steering stiff to turn so the settled for a little play instead. Q: What is acceptable 'play'? 2-3 inches or less? Q: My thought is that after I drive it for a few months we may try to adjust again and see if we can get it tighter. Thoughts?
 
I believe the eventual problem in the steering box is wear. And that is not adjustable with shims. You can adjust the top pin, rotate the pin and a owner invented a spring loaded pin. But when the cam gets worn. It gets worn to each side of the straight ahead position. And not so much beyond that area. This then leaves you with loose in the worn area and tight outside that area.
Replacement cams were originally available. But the last time I heard of one was maybe 20 years ago at TRF.
You can get the box rebuilt but again only some parts are available.
Charley
 
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