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I have found on most SU pumps that if you just file the contacts (to clean them) you don't need to do anything else for several years. Biggest help I have found if you seal up the electrical area by wraping the join area with electrical tape to keep out the water.
Bill
I've always disassembled/cleaned/reassembled them completely. The diaphragms are really stout, only seen a few that actually *needed* replacing. But the brass "washers" get cruddy/funky sometimes and the li'l flapper one-way valves can get stuck or dirty. I use #600 wet-or-dry on the points sets. less chance of creating a "hot spot" and burnishing them this way doesn't take off as much material. The article John pointed ya to will guide you thru it. They're really stone-simple devices. Only thing that I've seen to completely trash one is if the internal coil sufffers a short and goes into melt-down. That's rare.
Rob - Using the procedure linked by John and the hints from DrEntropy, you shuld get the old fuel pump working fine. Couple of points - If your car is later than 64, it will not have any of the "brass Washers" for centering the diaphragm, the later pumps use plastic centering plates. Second, the later pumps don't use the brass disks for the check valves, they have removable vlaves with plastic reeds. I would recommend keeping the Facet pump as a permanently installed back up pump - see my article at: https://www.mgexperience.net/article/backup-fuel-pump.html
If you run into problems getting your SU fuel pump working, send me an e-mail and I will try to guide you through it.
Cheers,
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