Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
D
DougF
Guest
Guest
Offline
I installed new rear wheel studs on the TR6 yesterday. Because of the configuration of the half shafts, reaming the holes on a drill press is almost out of the question. All work was done with the hub in position. I kept the hub secured in to the trailing arm with only a couple nuts, since it has to be pulled out a little to allow access for the new studs.
I used a 9/16" borer bit, similar to a reamer, it is cylindrical with a bevelled cutting edge. Working freehand, I was very concerned about straightness and did my best. These bits are almost self centering and make the job much easier than it should be.
When it came to drawing the stud through the bored hole and keeping it straight, I used a flat washer, and in this case a 7/16" box end wrench and a lug nut with a tapered end.
Placing the wrench over top the washer, I ran the lug nut in butting against the wrench head. Then it was just a matter of torquing down on the lug nut to draw the stud into position. A pneumatic wrench would work great here. I kept the hub from spinning with a long screw driver.
When finished. the brake drum slid right into position. By hand, I wasn't able to draw the stud completely into position.
I had one set back with a bad lug nut that pulled the stud loose. Once that problem was solved, The wheel was installed and everything was torqued into position.
It was much easier than expected.
I learned to never buy lug nuts at the local parts-a-ramas. They are of very poor quality.
I used a 9/16" borer bit, similar to a reamer, it is cylindrical with a bevelled cutting edge. Working freehand, I was very concerned about straightness and did my best. These bits are almost self centering and make the job much easier than it should be.
When it came to drawing the stud through the bored hole and keeping it straight, I used a flat washer, and in this case a 7/16" box end wrench and a lug nut with a tapered end.
Placing the wrench over top the washer, I ran the lug nut in butting against the wrench head. Then it was just a matter of torquing down on the lug nut to draw the stud into position. A pneumatic wrench would work great here. I kept the hub from spinning with a long screw driver.
When finished. the brake drum slid right into position. By hand, I wasn't able to draw the stud completely into position.
I had one set back with a bad lug nut that pulled the stud loose. Once that problem was solved, The wheel was installed and everything was torqued into position.
It was much easier than expected.
I learned to never buy lug nuts at the local parts-a-ramas. They are of very poor quality.
