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TR2/3/3A Rear Suspension Front Spring Attachment Pin Problem

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DornTRoriginal

DornTRoriginal

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I had a real hard time getting the bushing off the pin i.e. the front attachment for the rear spring. The buggar was really rusted onto the pin so I resorted to grinding and hand filing in order to get it off. Seems like everything on the right side of the car is really difficult to get apart, why is that? The pin got a little "nicked" in the process and spins since the "tab weld" was compromised when I was trying to turn it with a vice grip lever. I'll attach some pictures that show the nick and the area inside the frame where the tab weld is bent back. My questions are: should I replace the pin? If so, is this difficult and how should I go about it? Do I need to get someone to weld the tab back (I am not a welder) or can I use something like J&B Weld to hold he tab in place, assuming it doesn't break off. My concern is if I ever have to replace the spings again it would be really dificult if the bushing was to rust onto the pin again. The nicks seem like a good place for corrosion to manifest. I am planing to reinstall the old springs since they look fine and my budget is thin right now and I got the bushings to seat. Thanks for the advice and help!

Suspension Rear Spring frt Atchmnt (1) Email LG.jpg Suspension Rear Spring frt Atchmnt (2) Email LG.jpg
 
Dorn
If I am looking and thinking correctly, the tab is just for holding the pin from spinning when you tighten the other side down. The nick is not anything you worry about, may even hold extra for the pin. If you ever needed to remove this pin in the future your are going to need to use something like vise grips to hold the pin while you loosen the nut on the other side. I doubt JB weld would be of any advantage to you.
 
I restored my 1958 TR3A from 1987 to 1990. These bolts were rusted in. But since I was doing a body-off restoration, I didn't touch these pins. I installed the original springs before I lowered the body back onto the frame. When it came time in 2000 to replace the rear springs because one had broken, I unbolted the body all across the rear of the TR as well as those in the floor area. Then I used my rolling jack and lifted the rear end about 18" off the floor and replaced the springs. Took me a day. Those pins have been there for 55 years now. Don Elliott, Original Owner
 
If the pin spins and you have the spring off, it should be fairly easy to tap the pin out and give it a good coat of anti-seize. They seem to be plenty strong, so I wouldn't bother to replace unless the "nicks" look like enough to compromise the strength significantly.

My feeling is that the tab was also to ensure that the pin does not turn with the spring motion (and so wear out the tube in the frame). But my guess is that as long as you get the nut good and tight, it won't be a problem. You say that the tab is "bent back"; could you just bend it back into place? I wouldn't bother trying to JB Weld it. In spite of the hype, JB Weld isn't even as strong as a good plastic, nowhere near as strong as steel.
 
I would get this pin out and put it bacl with some lube so I could get it out if I needed to later on.

I'd also be tidying up the welding in the second picture which looks as if it will come off.
Probably the factory original!

Pin itself will do I expect.
 
That's been fixed before. That spattered weld blob in the second photo was someone's handy work who was new to welding. I would look around some more before closing her up to check for other fixes.
 
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