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Rear SU float not seating -- fuel overflow

Anyone got an SU float in SE Michigan I can purchase? Just found that the float is full of fuel. It was still quite buoyant, but not enough to seat the needle. Of course this happens when I'm supposed to take the car to a show out of town.
 
Britlover--

See my post in response to your other topic/request.
 
If the float needle is spring-loaded--it should be--adjust the float lever so that the spring is compressed at the nominal 7/16", not with the lever resting on an uncompressed spring.

We had the same problem in our BN2, I asked for advice and responders all said to set the lever with the spring uncompressed, and we had flooding on the rear carb. My dad said to set it with the spring compressed, and the flooding stopped. Hate it when the old man's right, but I guess he learned a thing or two in 70 years working on cars.
 
Also make sure the float bowl is vented properly I believe the early cars used a sort of serrated washer on the top of the float bowl for ventilation. It is possible to leave this off, if you do pressure in the float bowl keeps the gas from rising up and closing the needle valve and nothing works right (don't ask how I know this).
 
Anyone got an SU float in SE Michigan I can purchase? Just found that the float is full of fuel. It was still quite buoyant, but not enough to seat the needle. Of course this happens when I'm supposed to take the car to a show out of town.

Yep. Doesn't take much leakage of the float itself to lose the buoyancy needed. That will keep the valve open.
I'm partial to Viton-tipped valves as it seems like the newer Grose Jets have a "sticky ball" syndrome. :smile:
 
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