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Rear spring removal/replacement

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MadRiver

MadRiver

Jedi Knight
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Howdy all:

I ordered a new set of springs from Engles Imports for my C, and they're stitting on my living room floor ready for installation -- bachelorhood has its advantages. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Anyway, I'm getting ready to remove the existing super-stiff springs and replace them. I've read the technical manual, but before I dive in, any words of wisdom, tips, cautionary notes or useful prayers (or swears) before I jump in on Saturday morning?

I'm a reasonably good mechanic, but I've never had occasion to replace rear springs in a *very* long time, and never on a B or C. Sage advice is very welcome.

Thanks!
 
Very strait forward and easy. Just do one side at a time. When I changed mine out the things I ran into that slowed me down were a stuck shock link that had to be cut off and a pair of crushed bump stop pedistal on the axle. Some have had problems with the front bolt being frozen in place. Also you may want to change out the rear shackels for new as they are fairly cheap and the old may be very rusty.
 
only word of advise I can think of is to make sure the springs have as close to no loading on them as possible (compression or droop), and if possible, make sure the axle is parallel to the car. doing so should make removing the old and installing the new go as smoothly as possible.

When I rebushed and lowered the rear end of my car, I did it by jacking the car up 1 side at a time... So, one side was compressed while the other in droop. That caused the springs to twist a bit and made installing the new bushes, bolts, and lowering pads a major pain.
 
MadRiver said:
...-- bachelorhood has its advantages. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
Click to expand...
Ain't that the truth buthuh! My place looks like a cross between a computer parts warehouse, A/V warehouse, auto-body shop, and a MG parts warehouse!

Ain't no way that would happen with a woman in the pad! heh
 
Nunyas said:
Ain't that the truth buthuh! My place looks like a cross between a computer parts warehouse, A/V warehouse, auto-body shop, and a MG parts warehouse!

Ain't no way that would happen with a woman in the pad! heh
Click to expand...

True that, my man!

I had a woman come over for dinner last night -- I warned her that there were car parts on the living room floor. Her response was to whisper, half to herself "oh my god that's so hot." And she offered to help work on the LBCs. Her dad plays with Brit. iron. Might be a keeper!

And if her father spends time on this site, I want to say for the record, that your daughter is a lovely girl, I respect her and I'm both honorable and responsible. Seriously. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Pretty straightforward - I'm doing it right now on an old hulk I'm stripping...just remember this: put 2 jack stands under the rear end to hold it up after you release the U-bolts that hold the rear end to the springs...if you don't, the rear end might move upwards a little when you release the shock off the springs...& don't remove the straps from the rear end wghile the spring's out.
 
I've read differing advise on which to bolt first (front eye, rear shackle or u-bolts), for me, I reckon the front eye, then rear shackle and lastly the u-bolts.

Having done this a couple of times, the biggest PITA is properly lining up the u-bolts through the shackle plates and lining everything up for tightening, with the front and rear spring ends attached to the car. The problem I tend to have is when you jack up under the spring plates, the car lifts before the spring has compressed enough to give you enough u-bolt clearance through the shackle plates. Perhaps I need a really heavy friend!

The other problem I had was a rusted rear bush/shackle chassis hole, which meant I basically had to take a knife and trim the poly bushing to fit. Trying to force the rear shackle in is difficult enough, requiring a combination of crowbar, hammer, cussing and luck. I couldn't find the right size or shape of c-clamp to assist with the task. Finally, there's not a lot of clearance to get at the bolts on the rear shackles, particularly on the fuel tank side.
 
I, on the other hand, like to get the rear end free of the spring & raise it a bit on a jack stand...then I remove the spring & install the new one & then lower the rear end back on it.

Reason I use 2 jack stands (1 on either end) is so it doesn't 'jump around' when I disconnect the spring perch or when I jack up the side I'm removing.
 
I'm like Tony. I unbolt the axle from the springs before I unbolt the springs from the body. My reasoning is: If the axle is not attached to the spring, then it is a ~lot~ easier to remove/replace the spring because it will not be "loaded up".
 
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