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Rear spring removal problems

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ceedub

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Complements of the season from north of the 49th. Thank you to all who, from so far away, have helped me with my wrench turning episodes this year. Amazing technology this internet and equally amazing talent on this forum.
With the lousy weather upon us I decided that this was a good time to replace the sagging rear springs on my '73 'B. I have never attempted this before so need a little advice.
First, Haynes suggest that the body be supported at the "side members" I suppose that would mean jack stands just behind the jacking point. Can't see any other substantial support points but didn't think that this was far enough back. Am I correct in this assumption?
Second, I have cracked all of the nuts prior to the spring removal but got hung up trying to undo the shock absorber arm link from its support bracket on the spring.
Unfortunately. the stud that is protruding from the ball on this arm is turning with the nut. Can't see how to stop this rotation so I can get the nut off. Can't get vice grips in there to grab the stud. Is this a case for using a dremmel to cut the nut off. Hate to wreck the arm if I don't have to. Figured that someone out there must have a fix.
Thanks for your efforts on my behalf.

ceedub
 
They're vulcanized rubber "balls" and if they start spinning as described, you need to replace the link(s) anyhow. Whack it off with whatever POWER TOOL is handy. Oh, and they're a tapered fit in the lever arm. Soak liberally with PB Blaster a day or two ahead of time. You ~can~ release the four retaining bolts for the spring shackles and just moose the whole thing out of the way if you just want the diff and springs out.
 
Yep
 
Thanks for the tip. Do you need a puller to release the link from the lever arm or can I just 'worry' it back and forth till it releases?
Also, what advice would you offer regarding the side member support? Don't want to support it in the wrong place.
 
Support the car right in front of the rear spring's front mounting point.
 
Like Tony said, support it closer to the rear spring mount, giving yourself enought room to work there but far back enough to keep the wieght forward, especially if you are doing them both at once...which is no problem to do...an inch or two is all you need to get it done.

Try soaking the shock link nut with PBBlaster overnight before you do the removal. Give the nut a slight turn to tighten, then try to loosen the nut. If the nut still binds and the stud turns in the mount, cut it off and replace it. I will probably just become an anoying rattle in another year or so anyhow if it in hardened and/ or loose.

Good luck! and remember, this is just for fun! LOL

Bruce
 
I'm doing this very task now. I took the shock off and removed the whole unit. Easier to disassemble the other bits when it's in a machinist vice
 
i just changed out my rear suspension bushings and found the Hayne's to be lacking in the description of the process. Mine is a "66 so it may be different, but section H-9 makes no mention that after removing the rear shackle plate and pins and subsequently the front eye-bolt you MUST raise the spring to relieve the tension on the springs BEFORE you remove the locknuts and washers from the U-clips. Otherwise it will come flying off at great speed and loud crashing noises scaring the beegees out of your wife etc.. It may be obvious to those who have done it before, and I'm now one of them, but if you haven't and are following the book by the letter, it's very dnagerous. FWIW.
 
Gee, you mean to tell me that the laws of physics apply to MGBs?
Wow!! I learn something new here every day. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff
 
Try heat and penetrating oil on the shock link. If no go, remove the shock and support it properly on a work bench before beating the crap out of the link. It will come out.
 
C'mon now Jeff, expecting the laws of nature to apply to our favorite lil cars is really a stretch. Otherwise you'd never be able to explain the Lucas smoke.
 
And be careful when hammering out that old shock link - when I hit mine with the damper in the vice, it dropped onto the floor, missing my sandled foot by about half a foot!

In my experience, the two most difficult bits about changing out the rear springs are:

1) trying to convince the rear spring shackle pin to go into the mounting hole in the body with the bushing on and with the other pin half through the spring eye. Jemmying it all into place, and then doing up the nut on the shackle pin - there's not much room to swing a wrench right next to the fuel tank!

2) getting the u-bolts to line up properly through the shackle plates with enough clearance to get the nuts on - much re-jacking and back and forwarding of the axle. I bolt the front and rears up before the shackle plates - I've seen various advice on which to do first, but haven't found any other orders work (for me).

All the best!!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]found the Hayne's to be lacking in the description of the process.[/QUOTE]
About the only thing a Haynes is good for is to chock the wheels while you jack the car....go get a Bentley!
 
You know I checked to be sure and I have the Bentley not the Haynes, still has a lousy step by step. I use a triumph manual as the wheel chock!!!!!
 
Bentley is lacking in many areas as well, mainly in detailed instruction. It isn't the best manual for beginners. I keep a few different manuals on hand including both Bentley and Haynes in case I'm stuck and one doesn't have what I need but another does.
 
I have Bentley and Haynes and both are a little thin for amateurs like me. There is no replacement for experience. That's why I always refer to you guys when I come up short on the interpretation in either manual. I haven't heard of any other repair manual for the MGB so I guess I'm stuck with what I have. So,again, I thank you for your input.
By the way, I don't use the Haynes Repair Manual as a wheel chock but I certainly would not have any reluctance to use the Haynes Restoration Manual. I have not found much in there that is very useful and the hard cover works better as a chock.
 
And yet another example that we learn as we do. I too am an amateur and lean on this forum pretty heavily, and like you I know enough to learn from my own experiences and listen to others who have gone before me. Accordingly,from now on I will use the Triumph manual for that extra reach for the top shelf and I'll use the Haynes hard cover restoration manual as my wheel chock.
We observe and adapt.
 
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