• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Rear Shocks

Share this page

C

CaptRoy

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I think I need to have the rear shocks redone. The car floats around in the rear and when I push down on the back of the car it bounces up and down several times... I guess Apple Hydraulics is the best.. Should I go for the heavy duty rebuild?? How about the links... They quote $10.00

Thanks for your input...
 
Apple HD. Stock links are fine as long as they're tight. If you have the money go for the adjustable armstrongs from RevingtonUK. Not sure what you'd gain other than adjustability.
 
Capt Roy


I suggest World wide Auto in Madison. Guarantees product for life and really rebuilds them.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
 
Keoke said:
I suggest World wide Auto in Madison. Guarantees product for life and really rebuilds them.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting that Apple doesn't really rebuild them? What's the scoop?
 
I havn't tried to fill the shocks... I'm going to get off work tomorrow, jack up the car and see what's going on...

What type of oil should I put in them..
 
CaptRoy,

Pull off one of the shocks.

Print out the diagram in PeterK's post above.
For now, don't try to fine tune the shock.

Remover the filler threaded cap on top.
Remove the entire bottom assembly.

Put the shock in a shallow pan or plastic dish;
work the lever arm a few times to move the oil out.
Then allow the shock to drain overnight.

Go to a cycle shop and purchase a quart of fork oil.
Replace the bottom assembly and fill shock and work
the oil in by moving the lever many times.

If you get firm, solid resistance once the cap
is on, your shock is probably functional. If it feels
gritty or has jerky movements, it needs rebuilt or replaced.

d
 
PeterK said:
Keoke said:
I suggest World wide Auto in Madison. Guarantees product for life and really rebuilds them.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
Click to expand...

Are you suggesting that Apple doesn't really rebuild them? What's the scoop?
Click to expand...

Well Peter, maybe you should just acek around.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
CaptRoy said:
I havn't tried to fill the shocks... I'm going to get off work tomorrow, jack up the car and see what's going on...

What type of oil should I put in them..
Click to expand...



20-to-30 W Motorcycle fork oil.---Keoke-- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif


But if you truly want the arse end of that car to quit jumpin around you would install the tubular shock upgrade.
 
I went with the heavy duty rebuilds from Apple, been pretty satisfied so far and they were done 3 or 4 years ago. It was certainly a vast improvement over how they were prior to the rebuild, but some of that may have been due to the worn out springs I replaced at the same time. As good as a tube shock conversion? Most likely not even close, but IMO the best you can probably do with the levers. I'll probably switch to tube shocks when the opportunity (and money) presents itself.
 
Only asking because they did my 4A shocks a couple of years ago and all is well with them. I guess I'll ask around.
 
Just another note Roy,

The rear shackle bushings wear out pretty rapidly. Replacing the rubber bushings with poly is a popular option and better yet Joe Alexander's bronze option. Or still better yet, British Frame & Engines s.s. and nylatron rear spring locating kit will reduce rear end steering and keep you planted around the corners.

PK
 
I did the Apple HD rebuild last year on my TR6, along with new springs and all new rear bushings and links. Car rides better than new!
 
I've got 5+ years on Apple HD rebuilds, TRF links, and BPNW mild-upgrade springs. Seems to work fine, although the rear end is a little prone to stepping out when cornering on rough surfaces. Apple also re-sleeved my brake MC and I've been very happy with their work.
 
Now that I think about it, i did have one issue with work I had done at Apple. When I rebuilt my carbs I sent them the bases so that they could install new bushings for the throttle shafts. When I got them back one of them was very tight, to the point that I had to use alot of force to get the butterfly to open and close. I called them and they were very apologetic. I sent that one back and they fixed it and got it back to me in a few days, and covered my shipping expense for the return. I thought the service was good so I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. In fact I've got an old spare brake MC laying around that needs to be sleeved, I was thinking of having them do it so that I have a working spare.
 
Does someone make a tube shock conversion for a TR3A. I have not seen one offered... Just for TR4A, 250 and 6...
 
I have seen tube shock conversions for 3's and 4's from time to time on ebay. I can't think they would be much improvement over the levers. The suspension has very limited travel and with the internal friction of the multiple leaf springs, I don't see the advantage. I had the shocks on my 4 rebuilt by Apple a few years ago, they work fine, quick turn around also. My shocks had ovaled the shock bracket mounting hole over the years so used my mig to close it up a bit, drilled and ground flush. If you do that hold a thick copper plate on the backside to keep the weld off the back of mount. Use steel locking nuts and grade 8 bolts, tighten as much as you can.
 
Back
Top