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Rear part of trunk floor availablity?

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J

JOeyKnapp

Jedi Hopeful
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I have checked the normal places, but does anyone know if anyone sells a trunk/boot floor patch for the rear part of the boot/trunk floor?

I am replacing the back wall of the boot/trunk and the metal at the bottom of the trunk that meets up with it has a few problems. I have started to make a piece, but I don't have really the tools to do the best job.

Thanks!
 
I had to replace the hole panel myself. The only way would be to make a panel yourself. Sketch on the car add a lip and cut it out of 18g steel. Usually you will have to replace part of the rear valence also. I think it could be done as that area is flat for the first few inches. Tools you would need are a some good body hammers/dolly and a set of Body Pliers.

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Paul
 
I have all those tools Paul, The problem I was having was something I think an english wheel would address. Its curved, and then the bottom lip (the part that attaches to the back piece) has to curve too, and then I have to bring the piece forward on the floor about 6 inches for a span of about 8 inches.

I have some thin "V"s cut into the bottom lip, and some relief lines cut in the top of it. I will just have to go back and weld those to close them up. It would be nicer to just be able to buy a piece. :smile:
 
Have you tried A.H. Spares
 
Have you tried A.H. Spares. Or the folks that are building new bodies across the pond?
 
AH Spares just showed the full floor on their online catalog. Do they offer parts that aren't in the catalogue?
 
Joey,

Send an E-mail to AH Spares and see what they say. Even if you need to go with a full floor it's still easier to cut that down than fabricating everything from scratch. Remember your mission is to get in and drive. Fixing is a challenge, but driving is FUN!!! Do it a simple way so you can get on the road this year.
 
Jim, while I have a driving cheerleader, let me ask another question... I noticed when I was stripping the car that someone "fixed" the rockers by welding new metal on top of the rockers. It looks like it was done in a tidy fashion, and there is no rust forming anywhere visible (and the car has sat for 10 years). So, do I go ahead and cut those out and replace the metal or leave it?

(and I did plan on spraying ospho through the rocker channel once the car is flipped over, hoping that would help..)

I have mixed feelings. I have already done more metal work than I planned on, but I sort of feel like "why stop now"..
 
Exactly. That's one of the major problems we suffer with, the "while I'm in there" syndrome. I'm having a hard time visualizing what you mean on the rockers. If it's what I imagined, I would probably not like having good metal applied directly over bad. I fear for the tin worm being too easily able to transfer over to the new stuff and eat it away, unseen, from behind.
 
It all depends on where you are going with the car. Bugsy my '68 has a 1098 Engine, Miata Seats, a Bugeye Bonnet and a Rollbar along with a < $50 BRG Rustoleum Paint Job. I decided a long time ago that Bugsy would never be a Concours Restoration but would remain a fun Driver. Rust with these cars is an ongoing problem that cannot be fixed unless you go down to bare metal and that will expose other issues to worry about. Driving is the most important goal for me and keeping Bugsy running with all of the little idiosynchracies inherent to this LBC.

If outer rockers look good I'd consider leaving as-is and put that job on the long term projects list. And that also depends on investment you are planning in a paint job. Again Bugsy is a driver and the Rustoleum Paint Job makes it easy to fix and correct as I have time. OTOH if you are budgeting for a $1,000 paint job at a commercial shop better to fix as many rust problems as you can before expensive paint goes on.

Again these cars are open to interpretation and modifications. Do what feels right to you and within your budget. Again YMMV and others on the list have different opinions. For me, structurally sound, engine and braking systems working as designed without issues, good rubbber, paint becomes an after thought.Driving is the most important thing and you want this completed before Summer and Fall/ actually Fall and Winter for you goes away.
 
Jim, I want this car to turn out pretty nice. If it looks like I can cut my panel below the sill, and drill out the spot welds on the bottom pinch seam, I will probably replace the outer sills. I have already fixed the bottom (front and back) of the A pillars on each side, and my sills are fine, so I don't want to get into the difficulty of all those seams. I would feel a little more comfortable because then I would also have access to the rocker channel and it would give me a chance to clean it out properly and treat that area.
 
Joey,

Good look. Again Bugsy was a mutt when I acquired with a 1098 and Smooth case rather than a 1275 and a Rib Case(think P.O. with 5 parts cars in the back yard)and Bugsy was the only one that ran.

I will likely have a different approach with a '59 BE I've been chasing for the last 18 months. Working through title issues as car was stored for a friend but owned by someone else. Last titles and on the road in '78. Stored indoors for the most part since then. All the bits are there. This one is worth doing a total nut and bolt resto.
 
Well, it looks like the used trunk floor is going to fall through.

I have a friend 30 minutes away from Victoria British in Kansas. I am thinking of having him pick up the trunk floor for me, cut it into the piece I need, and then send it to me UPS. (as opposed to them sending it freight for $100 bucks).

Still open to other options, but none have surfaced yet..
 
I came up with another solution...

I found out that Victoria had free shipping for orders over $1k. I had a list of things I was waiting to order, so I went ahead and put it all together with the trunk floor, and got free shipping. I didn't want to spend that much right now, but I was going to have to sometime and it saved the freight shipping.
 
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