• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Rear Hub stud replacement

Share this page

Lin

Lin

Jedi Knight
Gold
Country flag
Offline
The threads on the studs one of my rear hubs look a little rough and worn, so I am going to change them out. Any tips on getting the old studs out of the hub? Also heard that putting the new studs in the freezer before installation is a good idea. Then just drive them in with a big hammer?

Thanks.

Lin
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast"
1959 AN5 Bugeye
 
Hi Lin,
Replacement is a very good idea. From the reports I've read, failure/loosening of the studs is one of the most frequent causes of roadside "outages". This is one of the most critical & highly stressed parts of the car.

To do this job correctly, the axles, hub/bearing carrier, should be removed. Big 8 sided nut - LH thread on the LH side.

The old studs can be pressed out of the carriers & new studs inserted. While the carriers are off, remove the bearings & inner seals, check or replace the bearings & install new seals. You will need to make a couple of bearing & seal removal tools. Hardwood or aluminum will work.

Torque the large nuts to 80 lb/ft or more. Preferably much more, like 160. Use new axle to drum gaskets & O rings.

Use NEW self locking drum retaining nuts torqued to 55 lb/ft Plus Blue Loctite.

I personally feel that pressing the studs allows for more controlled/precision stud removal & insertion. DO NOT try to drive the studs out of the carriers with the carriers attached to the axle ends.
D
 
Back
Top