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Rear Hub bearing removal

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Atrus

Atrus

Jedi Warrior
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How do you remove and reinstall these? Any tips/tricks? Are these pressed in? I have access to an arbor press if need be, but I'd prefer to take care of it at home if possible.
 
Once you get that darn seal out, then they tap out fairly easily. Do they need to be replaced? Or are you doing it as a preventative measure?
 
If you don't have the bearing off the axle,

What I did was take a box end wrench (actually, I think it was the loop at the end of an adjustable wrench) put the loop over one of the wheel studs, use a big washer to hold it in place and an even bigger wasker on the other side to hold the wrench close to the opposite stud. (necessity being the mother of invention) Anyway, tightened the wheel nuts and popped off the whole hub. You can then get at the bearing/ seal from the back, after that, easy. - just be gentle. BTW - I can't remember if that is the seal that I mashed the wire spring loop on the inside. Take out the spring put in the seal and reinstall the spring.
 
They are currently removed from the axle. Sounds like I can just tap them out then, that's good. I don't see any seal there, so I think everything is gutted down to just the bearings hanging out in the hubs. What seal are you talking about? Paper seal's gone, got the rubber "o" ring that sits in the groove on the hub completely cleaned off (hard as a rock, a sandblaster did awesome!).

Trevor, I needed new seals and am rebuilding the entire rear suspension and brakes, so I figure I want to do it all in one shot. That way, I'll know that everything back there is good. All new bushings, stainless brake line, new bearings, brakes, hubs, seals, etc. I got the Moss bearing kit.

Thanks for the replies!
 
My bad, bearing comes out first, then the seal.
 
Ah, so after I get the bearing(s) out, I have some fun times still waiting, eh?
 
Oh, so since they are loose, should I just set it in the wheelstuds and then take a screwdriver and tap the bearing out from the backside?
 
After you've removed the brake drum, a 1-7/8" socket removes the big nut holding the axle in the housing (they're sided so be careful), then the lock tab washer comes off.....pull the axle out....then, if the hub doesn't come off with the axle, it should tap off the axle case & the bearing should just 'drop' out....it may be a little tight what with years of use & grease but just tap it from the inside of the hub & it'll drop into your hand.

Installation is the reverse.
 
Cool, so it sounds like I have the tough stuff done then! Thanks :smile:

I need to get a 1-7/8" socket too. To get them off, I used a pair of channel locks. Well, for the standard threaded one. Per my post from about a month ago, the reverse thread was cut off by a dremel, much to my chagrin later on when I realized it was reverse thread :wink:
 
Atrus said:
Cool, so it sounds like I have the tough stuff done then! Thanks :smile: Per my post from about a month ago, the reverse thread was cut off by a dremel, much to my chagrin later on when I realized it was reverse thread :wink:
Click to expand...

thank goodness that never happened to me - or anyone else on this board :wall: :blush:

go to Harbour freight and buy a 3/4 drive socket set - there are 3 nuts and 1 bolt on my car that need them - rear hubs/ rear differential seal/ crankshaft/ spin on oil filter bracket (bolt) but I can't tell you how often I have used those sockets to drift in seals, bearings etc. etc. Got mine cheap from Princess Auto but HF (looks like about $45)
 
The bearing should not easily tap out of the housing, it should be a press fit. It's not good when the outer race has too much clearance. By the way, you can get a better bearing for the job, the Timken 207W, which has 12 balls instead of the standard 9, quite a bit stronger. Clean the new bearing thoroughly, then press into a thoroughly cleaned housing with red loctite, then pack with axle grease before fitting to the car. If the bearing is loose in the hub, get another hub!
 
The bearing should not easily tap out of the housing, it should be a press fit. It's not good when the outer race has too much clearance. By the way, you can get a better bearing for the job, the Timken 207W, which has 12 balls instead of the standard 9, quite a bit stronger. Clean the new bearing thoroughly, then press into a thoroughly cleaned housing with red loctite, then pack with axle grease before fitting to the car. If the bearing is loose in the hub, get another hub!
 
OK, bad choice of words. I was trying to say he could easily remove it at home without a press. My "tap" is probably what other people consider a "pounding". Good tip on the 207W's it never occurred to me to check. Of the two that I've replaced the bearings, neither really needed them replaced. However, I did replace them because of needing new seals.
 
The bearings on mine didn't seem bad, the (outer) seals most definitely were. Like I said, I just decided to go to it and do the whole thing.

While the upgrade my be worthwhile for some, I think the standard bearings should be just fine. I won't be racing the car, or driving a ton of miles. Just the occasional spirited drive.

Plus, like I mentioned, I sandblasted the hub, so those bearings are now full of grit. Sure, I could clean them out, but I'd rather just replace.

Thanks for the help guys! I told the wife that I am dedicating one whole day this weekend to the Sprite. I hope to get the vast majority of the rear end assembled and hopefully installed.
 
Yup, all good advice... I was a victim of RTB (Reverse Thread Blindness) as well, had to order a new one.

At the board's suggestion, I used gasket sealant on the paper gasket on reassembly - no leaks since.

Now for heaven's sake, just don't ask for a picture of the brakes, for reference when reassembling... it causes all kinds of trouble! :wink:
 
17-08-07_1410.jpg


(Driver's side)

- "blank" spots on pads go on the leading edge
- springs from behind

The only other bugaboo I encountered was that the rubbers on the new wheel cylinders were fatter than the originals, requiring the rear protrusions on the hub to be ground down slightly. (See pic below showing interference.)

17-08-07_1453.jpg
 
BuggerAll said:
The bearing should not easily tap out of the housing, it should be a press fit. It's not good when the outer race has too much clearance. By the way, you can get a better bearing for the job, the Timken 207W, which has 12 balls instead of the standard 9, quite a bit stronger. Clean the new bearing thoroughly, then press into a thoroughly cleaned housing with red loctite, then pack with axle grease before fitting to the car. If the bearing is loose in the hub, get another hub!
Click to expand...
When I say 'tap' I don't mean bang hard but I also was able to put them in without a press.....a big piece of pipe & a hammer did mine easily.
 
Thanks everyone, especially for the brake pics! That'll help a lot. I was having brake issues, that's one of the three reasons I decided to tear it down.

1) Driver's side sagging 1"
2) Rear end would get squirrely on bumps
3) Driver's brake would rub (even with adjuster backed off, parking brake too). I am hoping it was a bad drum.
 
Bent back plate?
 
hmmm, didn't think of that one. I'll have to check that out...
 
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