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rear healey height?

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Well Tom, that does look a little high, I didn't see that you had recently installed these. For the new springs I installed, I had to remove a leaf in order to get the axle off the frame even while jumping up and down in the trunk. Taking a leaf out isn't the worst job when the bolts are new. It doesn't look like your frame has been messed with. A quick check would be if the rear section of the frame is parallel to the main section of the frame. Here is a rough side view sketch of what I'm talking about.
 
When I changed the springs, the new ones had one less leaf than the ones that were on the car. I'll check and see if frame is parallel
 
Hi Tom,
Each leaf could be stiffer on the new spring, making the total spring rate the same as the original in spec.
One other thought. When you installed the new springs, did you tighten all the bolts while the car was up in the air? What I did was install everything with the bolt still loose. Then lowered the car to the ground and torqued the bolts at the proper ride height.
 
Looks just like the Curt Tanner restoration rear spring heights.

I would leave them for a year and drive the heck out of the car!!

Pete
 
It's been a while since I did it, but I'm sure that I tightened them when the car was up. If I loosen the bolts while it's on the ground and then retighten, will the car settle some?
 
I believe the number you are looking for is 27 inches from ground to top of wheel arch on fender (wing) on an early BJ8 and about one inch higher on the phase 2. This was given to me by Dave Russell a few years ago.
 
It looks high. I wonder if a previous owner did something like use hardware or shakels from a different year. If there is a shakle of the wrong height, that would cause the difference. A 65 BJ8 is slightly different. I was told once to put grease between the leafs to help them settle when assembling. Check to see you have received the right springs too. A 65 BJ8 is slightly different.
 
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