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Rear End Done In...

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Obtong

Jedi Hopeful
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Dear All,

My pride and joy was hit in the rear this evening as I was pulling out of a parking stall. I was about to straighten out when someone in a Ford Expolrer pulled out and hit me. I didn't have time to get into first and pull away. I felt the bump and put my head in my hands...

The Explorer had a scrape on its bumper, but my 74B was hit right in the plate and was pushed in and the trunk dented. I cannot open it now, and the lock has twisted. The metalwork behind the plate is also pushed in. You can see the damage at:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/PHPhotoalbum/displayimage.php?pid=855

I am in need of three things form our forum members:
1. Sympathy
2. I'm not capable of doing the job myself, so what do I ask for when getting this fixed?
3. Will it be an expensive job? (The other guy's insurance will pay.)

Thanks,
Dom
 
bummer! the good news is that it's not severe damage and you won't have to deal with the insurance company trying to send it to the junk yard.
When it comes to getting it fixed, I'd push for replacement panels, at least for the trunk lid. A new truck mechanism of course too and all the hardware associated with the licence plate cover and so on. Unfortunately, they'll probably just have to straighten out the sheetmetal on the body itself, but since it's not really mangled, the body shop should get it VERY close and they'll use minimal bondo...price around for the work. typically, if you get three quotes for repairs the insurance will cut you a check for the lowest of the three. Then you can do some of it yourself and save the cash or take it to someone you know for a 'cash deal' and keep a little in your pocket or put it towards something on the B...best of luck with the repairs...
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gifYou have my sympathy but I was once told that you can find sympathy between sh*t and syphalis in the dictionary important thing is that no one was hurt and the car is fixable I would stick to my guns and require that both the trunk lid and the rear panle be replaced and do not accept shoddy work be sure that the trunk seals and the gap around the trunk is uniform all the way around I have seen much worse repaired and on the road again in their fine glory /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
Allow me the permission to go off topic briefly...

Welcome back mowog! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif It's been awhile, hope to see more of you again, and chat still works fine drop in some time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Now back to regular programming.
 
Dear All,

I got two quotes to get the rear panel and trunk lid on my 74b repaired/replaced. Each eastimate was around $2000. The insurance adjuster is coming to see the car tomorrow to see if it should be repaired or written off. I understand that if the repair cost is too high in relation to the value of the car it is written off and the owner the has a "buy back" option.

I don't know the value of my 74B. It is a daily driver and is (was) in good condition. I have put a lot of time and money to get it running smoothly. Does anyone know how to approach this kind of offer? I think my car (when repaired) could probably sell for $2,700. But if I were to buy another, I woudn't know what problems it may have. I know all of my current MGB's needs and quirks.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Dom
 
buy it back. a cash deal to repair something like you showed me around here would run about $300-400 for quality work. Repair places always jack up their prices when they know they're going to have to fill out paper work for the insurance place, and wait for payment and so on. they'll cut you a good deal if you tell them it's cash out the door. As for the damage, it's not structural, it's not major, the car is worth saving. Make sure you do that. I'd shoot for cash based on the quotes you've got (hopefully in writing).
 
Aloha Dom,

You have my sympathy, I suffered a similar event last summer when my TR3 was crunched by a pick up truck. I was lucky in that no one was injured, my insurance company agreed to repair the car and a company approved body shop to do the work. The damage to my Triumph was a smashed left front fender, the front cowl and grille and some other miscellaneous parts. The body shop was a little reluctant at first, but when I shared with them sources for new replacement parts they became more enthusiastic. They did an excellent job and the damage is now undetectable.

My advice is to find a body shop that your insurance company works with and that does quality work. In most case they will want work with new parts, not salvaged panels, if not insist that new ones be used. My repair took longer than the original estimate, about 3 weeks more but the results were great. So allow them time to do the job, but check up on them periodically. If you are going to do the work yourself, get the cost of a new trunk lid included in the settlement.

Good luck and remember, in a few months this will only be an unpleasant memory as you drive the car.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
Dom,

I think your car is worth a lot more than $2700. The adjuster should be aware of that and be willing to cut you a check for the lowest estmate you have. If he tries to "total" your car for this minor damage, he is counting on your emotions to setlle for less. DO NOT express an emotional attachment to an insurance adjuster...it makes them smell blood. Insist that your $4000 antique sports car has received only $2000 in damage and you intend to have it repairs to its ORIGINAL condition. Then the only decision to be negotiated is whether he and YOU will settle the claim for the amount of your estimate or if you need to use one of the Company's approved repair shops. I am sure if he understands this, he will be willing to settle for your claimed amount.

If he plays stupid about the value of your car, or tries to negociate a lower settlement, start rubbing your neck and comment that perhaps you should continue the converstion in a day or two...after you have seen a doctor and a lawyer...he will settle for $2000 quickly! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Good luck!
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
First, may I offer my sympathy.

Second, at leasat in Illinois, you do NOT have to have the work done at the body shop the insurance company recommends.
You should select a shop that has experience with these type of cars and hopefully recommended by other owners in your area.

Third, do not show the estimates to the insurance adjuster until after he makes his offer. Who knows, he might offer more than your estimates. If he is lower, then pull out your estimates and review where the differences occur. He may very well have missed something.

Lastly, review ads in various publications so you have an idea what your car is really worth. You may need it as a bargaining chip.
 
One way to avoid this type of crap from insurance adjusters is to have the car insured for replacment value I did this several years ago and they have siad more than once that they would total the car before they would pay the exorbitant repair bill guess what I told them go ahead and total it it is insured for replacement value which had been agreed upon at 15 K then I had a check in less than a week I know this is hindsight but it may save someone else a headache all you have to do is ahve a good appraisal done and give this to your agent and tell them you want replacement value insurance.
 
Thanks for all your help folks. It looks as if we're going to settle for around $2,500, plus a rental car while the MG is in the shop. I'm going to go for the cash/check so I can do some of the work myself and then take it to a shop for that which I can't do.

Once again, thanks,
Dom
 
good deal, sounds like this is going to work out for you. purchase all your own parts from moss/vb or your favorite supplier since the body shop will charge an arm and a leg for them. I'd replace all the hardware for the plate, trunk latch, etc. Just get them to straighten out the body and paint the trunk, you can do everything else /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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