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TR6 Rear bumper removal - TR6

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cmacmillan

cmacmillan

Senior Member
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Trying to pull the rear fenders and clean them up. Trying to remove at least the bolts on each side so I can get the fenders off...we'll see about getting the whole bumper off later.

Threads I've read seem to be about the bolts through the rear valance behind the overriders. All seem to suggest the side ones are "not a problem"....well....the bolt heads are turning, I can see them rotating inside the bumper cavity outside the fender. ****ed if I can figure out why they aren't coming out. There's absolutely no clearance to reach inside the bumper to feel what's happening.

...what am I missing?
 
May have to grind or otherwise cut off the heads or nuts, whichever you can reach.

Ed
 
Hi Cam

Sorry I won't be much help on this one as I haven't had the pleasure of having to remove over riders on a TR6...I think there are captive nuts on the inside of the bumper....are you able to try and jamb a screwdriver in there to stop the nut from turning?

Cheers
Tush
 
It really just looks like a stud spinning on the outside of the fender - although there's some square contraption in there too so there might be a nut buried in there. Even if there was something to clamp on to, there's no clearance to get something in there....baffled.
 
The infamous caged nut. I had to cut a couple of mine and then put a regular nut on. It's tight but can be done.

Perry
 
Thanks Kevin - I'd found that thread and it seems to be about the bolts going through the rear valance.

Perry - about these cage nuts - did you have to grind them off from the outer side (ie: inside the bumper, outside the fender), or grind off the bolt head inside the fender?
 
When you get tired of screwing around with the caged nut inside the bumper bracket. There is a grinding wheel that goes on a 4 inch grinder that is 1/16 inch thick and will cut it off in a minute, just try to stay more towards the bumper side of the grind by jamming in a chisel or some type of wedge, not a TR7, on the opposite side. When putting it back together weld or use a regular nut and thin wrench to tighten it up.
Be sure to wear some safety glasses and try to get were the sparks are going away from you. Some times you do what you need to do, not what is correct.

Wayne
 
pdplot said:
I always said the engineers who designed cars - any cars- should be forced to work on them 15 or 20 years later.
Click to expand...

Love it ! I say the same. Years ago I had to change the alternator on a one owner Saab that supposedly had never had the alternator changed ( I can't remember the year - '86 900s maybe ?) and had to raise the engine/ trans because the 6" bolt had to come out toward the rear and was up against the firewall.
 
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