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General TR Rear bulb holders.

trrdster2000

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The rear lights have always had trouble with the grounds and this was no exception. For those who do not know, the ground ring with the little feelers are aluminum and the little copper spring that sets on the outside of the bulb giving the connection are two different and troublesome materials. Over the years they oxidize and the connection is broken. You can heat the plastic with a heat gun, pull back the holding edge and clean the aluminum on a bit of sandpaper and also the copper, put some de electric grease on it, stick it back together and heat the edge and fold it over. This will give you a almost good connection. Now, use a solder gun and get a small drop between them, make sure the metal melts the solder or you will be just laying the solder on top of the metal, not good, and that is as good as it will get. You can add a small wire at the solder and make a ground to frame, I did that on the TR6 and I think someone was selling those a few years back.
I had mentioned in a early post about BPNW having them for less than $5 each for single or double filiment holders. I don't know if they are the same as VB or Moss, but let me tell you not to waste your time, just rebuild your old ones. The BPNW did not work on half of the set and the other half fell apart when pulling them out tring to get a ground. The feeler cage for the ground is chromed, so that was a good thing for the solder project. I'm sorry for bad mouthing BPNW but felt the members here should be warned of a bad product.
They are better than the old ones when rebuilt but a big problem was the locating tit, it was larger than the bracket that it was surposed to fit over and didn't let the ring set down on the copper connection. If you have these and go through the process I decribed, be sure to dremell the little tit down a bit.
The new ones did not even require heat to get them apart, but after I got them back together and soldered a drop between the metals, I used the solder gun to melt a few places around the edge and then it was sealed for good.
Hope this will give you a fun project for the winter months you can do on the kitchen table.

Wayne
 
FWIW, the new ones I got from TRF and Rimmer Brothers a few years back were internally redesigned to completely eliminate that troublesome connection inside. They don't ground through the spring clip at all, instead the ground comes out to a quick connect tab. So no modification is needed (mine fit perfectly), but you do have to add a ground wire for the tab.
 
Thanks Randall, I knew they were about, but have not checked into it. I did that on the TR6, adding the wire to the solder joint. As in most cases with these rebuilds the money is flowing at the beginning and becomes a dry creek bed toward the end. Something new to order every time you work on it. This has turned out to be a huge project and we should have put the GT6 engine in the frame of the Spit and just changed the front towers and a couple of brackets.

Wayne
 
Right Berry, what I said. Thanks.
I could have saved me a lot of writing had I looked that up and he did it better.
That's OK, as now we have everyone's' attention for a winter project.

Wayne
 
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