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rear brakes

msoylemez

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Hello-

Question--can the BE handle the later model rear brake cylinders using the existing mounting area?

I am looking to convert to the double-sided cylinders later ones.

Thanks-
 
healeyboz said:
Yes it can, however, you have to change out the backing plates.

Yes, and the rear lines as well.

For street performance they offer very little benefit.

Patrick
 
I think they are easier (and cheaper) to maintain. But I may be wrong...
 
How does one deal with the different angle of the whole brake assembly relative to the axle between BE and newer set-ups? Also, how does one hook up the E-brake? With the newer backing plates the angle is wrong betweeb the rods and levers. The mounting bolt pattern between the new and the old is located quite differently, placing the shoes etc. in a different position inside the drum. Do you re-drill new mounting holes into the newer backing plates? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif
 
ok ok you convinved me not to upgrade to the dual push cylinders.

The reason I asked is bc I am having lots of issues with the rear brakes, as they are not providing good contact with the drums. The lines have been bled and rebled and rebled (finally confirmed no air), there are no leaks and the drums/shoes have been rearched to minimal uniform clearances throughout.

When I clamped off the rear line from the rest of the system, I've got full pedal on the rest of the system--the front disc set-up is great--single pedal push resistance.

it's when I combine the rear into the equation that its giving me all sorts of headaches. We're talking about 2 pumps on the pedal.

Mustafa
 
"""""""""it's when I combine the rear into the equation that its giving me all sorts of headaches. We're talking about 2 pumps on the pedal.""""""""""""

what master are you using........the original BE or a later piece or....

A single master or a later double master........


The re should B NO residual pressure in the front brake line and residual pressure (about 5 psi) in the rear.

Typical symptems of "pumping" once and again is no r.p...... two or three pumps MIGHT be rear brakes adjusted too loose.
 
Mustafa, I asked all those questions not to disuade you, but for some answers fro myself as well, from someone who might have them. I have switched the rears to the newer ones, but I do not have an E-brake hooked up. The brakes work, but I do not think as were designed to, nor as well as they should. After all, the leading and trailing shoes are not in the same (9 o'clock & 3 o'clock) positions as the original set-up! They now sit closer to 8 & 2.
 
JerryB, I had a feeling that might be the case. The british garage I took it into (bc I for the life of me could not get the system 100% bled--Jack I think you were having some problems, too) said that I should consider a residual pressure valve on the rear line to make sure there is always some pressure. They are Mini Cooper specialists, so they weren't 100% sure, but they said this might help it out. They told me to start with a valve from Summit Racing or something like that. I have yet to buy one, but your comments suggest that this is a very possible problem/solution.

That having been said, what should I buy, from where and what model? Sorry for the myraid questions--but I've been dealing with this problem for a loong time and its time for it to GO AWAY...

Mustafa
 
Have you checked the adjustment on the master cyl. it allows you to move where the pedel bites.
 
Yes, unfortunately so Jack. Master is pretty well adjusted. Also, the rear brakes are adjusted to where they should be working just fine with one pump.
 
Has anybody out there actually switched the rear assemblies from a newer axle/spring system to the earlier 1/4 elliptic BE set up successfully? I believe there would be advantages since the newer drums and shoes are larger than the original BEs and the wheel cylinders are more "modern"!
 
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