Rear Brake Question

[CharlieCarpenter]

I'm trying to remove the brake adjuster assembly and the wheel cylinder assembly from the back plate. Viewing the Moss catalog it looks like two nuts hold the adjuster in place. I've removed the nuts but no movement??? The cylinder moves but sure doesn't want to come free. The hand brake lever appears to be holding it from coming free. Is there something else holding it? All help appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Dave Russell]

Charlie,
The adjuster should come off with the two nuts removed.

The cylinder is a different matter. On the back side of the plate there are two nose to nose horseshoe shaped spring clips, items # 22 & 23 in my Moss catalog. These clips have to be removed by sliding them out from behind the cylinder flange in opposite directions. There is a locking tab on one clip that prevents them from sliding out. You need to simultaneously lift the tab & drive the other clip out with a small flat punch (screwdriver) The second clip will come out fairly easy. All a big PITA.

Of course this is all complicated by the rubber dust boot & hand brake lever being in the way. Get lots of working room & light on the subject. Once you have one apart you can see how it is supposed to work.
D

 

[CharlieCarpenter]

Thank you Dave. I'm now convinced all British auto assembly line workers had 10-10 night vision sight, were 5' 1" tall, had 38" long arms with fingers the size of tooth picks; and oh by the way, those arms had the strength of the Hulk.
Cheers
Charlie

 

[Brian N.]

Charlie---

I just completed this very job on my car last week.

Those horseshoe pieces are a pain. The ones supplied by moss are a bit different than the ones in the service book. They install in a different order.

Here's what I got to fit:

Slide the one with the bent fingertips in first, from rear of car toward the front. Bent tips inward toward the differential, not the tire. Then slide the other one from the front of the car back over the first one all the way until the bent fingers of the first one spring up into the little slots on the end of this second horseshoe. This make sure it will not come off. Not even when you want it off at your next brake overhaul!

It's a good idea to lightly lube all these parts that slide together. Even the part of the aluminum cylinder that slides on the brake back plate.

Also, be sure to put the dust boot over the brake line before attaching the brake line. Secure this brake line before installing the horseshoes. This will give you more wiggle room to align the fitting into the brake cylinder.

The hand brake lever goes on AFTER the horseshoes. Yes, you have to fit it though the slot and use a hammer to tap into place. Doesn't sound right but this is according to the service book. It works. If you try to put it on before the horseshoes, the rear horseshoe won't fit.


Lastly, pull the new dustboots over the cylinder and tuck the large loop around the stacked horseshoes. The inside edge of the loop is beveled to fit nicely under the edge of the horseshoes.

Access seemed best on my back from under the center of the car when up on high jacks. (be careful you have the car secure on the jacks. I don't trust jacks). Working from the side and reaching around the brake backing plate is not as easy.

If none of this makes sense, my apologies. It's all fresh in my mind, so I am trying to be a bit helpful.

All the best,

Brian

 

[Dave Russell]

Brian,
You are absolutely correct. I didn't have the stands high enough & worked from the outside. Most frustrating project I ever tackled. I think that Charlie is right on about the English car assemblers.

 

[CharlieCarpenter]

I don't know if I'll be smiling after this weekend. Plan to pick up a case of beer Friday expecting the worst as I tackle those rear brake cylinders. W/O the high jack stands!
Thanks for the great guidance.

Charlie

 

[catfood]

A favourite job of mine that one. I told the wife at worst it would take an hour. My wife obviously knows better. She always asks if I am talking 'real' hours or Healey hours. She has learnt that a Healey hour translates into anywhere between 5 and 50 'real' hours!!!!