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Tips
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Rear Brake Cylinder

memphis

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hi All!

Should the rear brake cylinder be centered within the plate slot, or should the cylinder be down all the way against one side?

Thanks,
Bob
 

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Looks right in the picture to me.---Keoke
 
The cylinder is designed to slide within that slot in the backing plate to self-adjust.
 
BoyRacer said:
The cylinder is designed to slide within that slot in the backing plate to self-adjust.
I would've used the term self-center, but I think we're on the same page here :wink:

Aren't those clamping plates fun?

IMG_2341.sized.jpg


IMG_2342.sized.jpg
 
Thanks Guys!

So they are designed to slide in the slot. I guess that's good, because that is what mine were doing when I pulled the rear drums and pads and then re-installed.

I am not sure I am adjusting the rear brakes correctly? I have new cylinders, new pads, new drums, etc...

When I tighten the pads I start to hear a scraping sound like there is a high side to one of the pads? When I hear this, I then back off the adjuster by 2 flats and the wheel spins freely.

Shouldnt I feel a real good resistance on both shoes as I tighten, then back off 2 or 3 flats??? If I do this, I then still hear a bit of scraping on one of the pads...? This is what lead me to question the position of the cylinder in the slot on the back plate...

Any advice is appreciated!Thanks,
Bob
 
Shouldnt I feel a real good resistance on both shoes as I tighten,

Yes: if you had the Shoes arced whih the drums when they were turned---Keoke


then back off 2 or 3 flats??? If I do this, I then still hear a bit of scraping on one of the pads...? This is what lead me to question the position of the cylinder in the slot on the back plate...
 
Hi Bob, Keoke is correct about the shoe arcs matching each drum. You could try this your self by placing the new shoes inside the drum and with a strong light look for high spots. Sand the high spots down until you get a good fit.

Another source of the "squeak" you mention could be the centering post fot the shoes. There's a rubber tip thats meant to go over the post. Could be yours is missing.
 
Hi Johnny,

You mention a "rubber post"? Not sure what this is?
Can you please explain, or do you have a picture?

Do you mean the felt bush on the back posts behind the shoes?

Thanks!
Bob
 
Do you mean the felt bush on the back posts behind the shoes

Yes that is what he is referring to Bob.---Keoke
.
 
This is getting very interesting! Actually, on the right side, where I hear the slight scraping noise (like there's a high side to one of the shoes...), I know I am missing one of the felt bushes. In the mean time, I ordered 4 new ones and have rec'd them.

I guess I will pull the drums and shoes off again and install the new bushes and especially install the one that is currently missing on the right side. Then readjust and see if I can get the shoes more even and adjusted correctly.

Amazing how that little booger would be the issue.

What a great group this is!

Thanks guys!!!
Bob
 
The green stuff is Girling *mechanical* grease (as opposed to Girling *rubber* grease__the red stuff).

Felt bushes:

IMG_2344.sized.jpg


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IMG_2347.sized.jpg
 
BTW, I don't see the rubber dust seal (exterior of backplate, around the rwc) in your picture that is installed in my picture...
 
Randy Forbes said:
Aren't those clamping plates fun?

Oh wow Randy, you never done a Zephyr one! They are identical except the clips are recessed in a 1/2" deep stamped steel well which serves absolutely no purpose other than to require violence and swearing to get the darn things in. I wrecked mine getting them out, thought it was my fault for having too many beers, consulted others- found this is standard practice, and then proceeded to half wreck the new ones I got getting them back in... Healey ones are easy- you don't even need a cold chisel.

Bob- scraping is ok as long as there is no binding. If after 1000 miles to bed in the brakes you can't get the wheel to rotate without binding after backing off two clicks from locked then you may need to lathe the drum surface while mounted up on the hubs/axles, using the inner bearing surface as a zero reference. I recently did my Healey drums like this and found the centre of the drum is not the same as the axle centre nor hub centre.

Andy.
 
Thanks Randy, & Andy,

I'll do this repair job on the upcoming weekend and report back how it turns out.
Regards,
Bob
ps. Randy I purchased the replacement spring clip kit from Moss. Hopefully the rubber dust seals are in the box...?
 
Hi Guys!

I started on this project this evening...

I am down to removing the "clips from satan" on the caliper.
I purchased a new "kit" from Moss which includes new clips and a rubber boot.

I spent an hour trying to remove these clips...
How in the sam he.. do this clips come off?

Please let me know if you have any tricks for this procedure.

Thank you!
Bob
 
You need to get something between the lower and upper clips to separate the edge with the two little tags. Two small screwdrivers, one from each side works. Then tap the top plate with another screwdriver until it slides over the two tags and they should then pretty much fall apart. Mine were very easy once I had got the top plate to slide over the tags.

Pretty sure the handbrake lever has to come out before the lower clip can be removed.

Andy.
 
Hi All,

I was able to finish this job yesterday. Memphis was a wonderful 63 degrees.

I installed new brake cylinder clips, along with new rubber boots and new small felt bushes behind the shoes. I also applied some grease (came with the new clip kit from Moss) behind the cylinder (like in Randys picture above). This helps the mechanism to slide in the plate and helps to center the shoes in the drum.

I readjusted the brake shoes and the overall braking is improved! Andy, I used your idea of the small screw drivers to hold back the clip tabs and that worked great, thanks!

There is still a slight high point on one of the shoes, but I think as I put on some miles and then readjust, it'll be fine.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
Bob
 

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