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rear axles

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SilentUnicorn

SilentUnicorn

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well this afternoon i popped something in my rear end. for the moment i am going to figure it is an axle i snapped. any words of wisdom on how to get the broken piece out?

i am guessing that it will come out in two pieces. sure am glad i have a spare rear end.

mark

not /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif anymore
 
Re: rea axles

Mark, usually they break at the flange, and getting them out is no big deal. Sometimes you can get it easily, or you may have to pull the hub to get a grip on the piece that's left. Maybe a small, powerful magnet would help.
If it broke at the splines, or you can't remove it otherwise, you are going to have to pull the axle on the other side, and use something like a dowel or a thin broomstick to push the broken one out from the opposite end.
I always used to carry a spare axle with me, and have actually done this by the roadside!
Good luck,
Jeff
 
Re: rea axles

thanx Jeff




mark
 
Re: rea axles

Ouch, Mark! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/pukeface.gif
Does the ratio of the blown one match what you have to replace it with?
Make sure you clean all of the gunkies out of the axle tubes before you install the replacement, as I'm sure you will.
Jeff
 
try this link folks

https://photos.yahoo.com/unicornsthunder

Jeff
the ratios are not the same, the one that came out was a 11 41 the spare i have is a 10 39. Any comments on that?
speedometer maybe off? car seems to run well with the 10 39 maybe a little smoother on take off.


mark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif




[image]https://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/3fdc9ce9_7935/bc/69c1/__sr_/df0c.jpg?phf8AxABFB.icj2E[/image]
 
Mark, you'll notice a bit better acceleration with the 3.90 over the 3.72, but not much. There's only a 5% difference between the two, so your speedo will read 5% high. Of course, your gas mileage will be down by the same amount, or at least it would be, in a perfect world. Both are easy to l1ve with.
I've got the 3.90 in my '72, and have been toying with the idea of changing to a 4.22 or even a 4.55 just for the fun of it.
Jeff
 
i can see that going high would certianly be more fun. the car seems smoother on take offs now, i think because the cam (th2k) seems to like a little higher revs.

but you can be sure i wont be mistreating it any time soon.

i priced out the parts thru moss and replacements for the damaged items doesnt seem too bad. i think i may try fixing it. Least that way i will have another spare.

just to ley ya all know what i did, i dumped the clutch at better than 3500 rpm, from a standing start. i have 175/70's on the rear and the hooked up quite well i guess. heard a bang from the rear and that was all she wrote. guess i am 42 going on 16..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif lol

mark

ps; since this rear end that i just installed is the one original to the car, Is the Speedo still off? the one i toasted was not original to the car.
 
Repeat after me. "I will not side-step the clutch."
I thought the 3.72 rear gear was standard for the 1500's, and the 3.90 was in the later 1275's.
Your speedo won't be off by much anyway, since you're running 175-70 tires.
If all it took out were the spider gears, it should be an easy fix.
Jeff
 
the 3.7 was in my 79 midget
the 3.9 was in a 75 with a 1500

i will not side step the clutch
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif


mark
 
So what is the consensus on launching (feathering the clutch in gently) from 4000 on a hot 1500? I was doing it sunday at an autocross with no apparent ill effects ... Just don't want to get stuck :p It isn't a trailer queen yet!
 
4000 RPM and careful feathering of the clutch is about how I do it at autocrosses and hillclmbs. Since you are running an open diffrential (I assume), that also takes some of the load off the axles.
Many Spridget drivers report axle snapping more common at the flange (including Jeff above), but to be honest, I've broken about 6 at the spline and none at the flange.
Some 1275 cars came with German axles that are supposed to be better....also double-bearing race-axles are available for improved durability (I'm the only guy in our club not running them).
If the ring and pinion gears are OK in Unicorn's damaged diff, it would be a perfect candidate for welding into a "locker" rear. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
i dissambled last night. the ring and pinion gears survived ok. the smaller DIFFERENTIAL pinion gears are totally toast. and i chipped one of the teeth on the other set of DIFFERENTIAL gears. could i still weld it up to be solid?
hadnt thought of that, probaly would be unadvisable for the street?

mark
 
Nial, I think my axle breakages have been about two at the spline, and four or five at the flange. The main reason for the double bearing rear hubs are to reduce the loading at the flange induced by cornering forces. I suppose a more common reason for breakage at the spline would be related to applied torque.
Even the good competition axles that I run on the racer can snap a flange if used with stock hubs.
Would you really want to run a welded diff on the street? Instant oversteer on many occasions! Besides, they're hard to push!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
I ran a welded diff on the street for about 2 years in my old 1275 car. Actually it wasn't that bad if you avoided slow, tight turns like "K-turns" (although the scuffing made the car seem "racey" and "way-cool"). Skinny street tires made it tolerable.
I'm running an open differential and single-bearing axles on my racer....I guess the 1500 doesn't have that much "grunt": it's never snapped an axle (still, I'll bring some spare axles to BeaveRun this weekend).
One plus for welded rears: they're great in snowy climates.
 
[ QUOTE ]

One plus for welded rears: they're great in snowy climates.

[/ QUOTE ]

That depends how you look at it. I run welded diffs in my Jeep, I don't like taking it on snowy or rainy roads. straight line traction is great, but taking a turn with a welded diff is an interesting experience in bad weather /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
i dissambled last night. the ring and pinion gears survived ok. the smaller DIFFERENTIAL pinion gears are totally toast. and i chipped one of the teeth on the other set of DIFFERENTIAL gears. could i still weld it up to be solid?
hadnt thought of that, probaly would be unadvisable for the street?

mark

[/ QUOTE ]

i think you're talking about the spider gears. If you weld them to the carrier, you're all set with a welded diff, no replacement parts required /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
i agree i would call them spider gears, the moss cat uses the names i used/ do you weld the spiders to the differential gears?

in the xnow it would be what i call gas pedal steer.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

but lots of fun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

mark
 
weld the three spider gears you have left to each other, then weld them to the carrier (the hunk of metal they sit in) I find the best way to do it quick and easy, is to first, spray the whole third member down (or at least the carrier and spider gears) with brake parts cleaner. It's good at getting rid of the grease/oil. Let it dry completely, then slap some beads between the spider gears, welding them together, then weld the gears to the carrier. Supposedly it's better do do this with an arc welder w/ a nickel rod, preheating everything to 600 degreees and yada yada. I've done this with my Miller MIG w/o any problems...done 5 now this way, none have failed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif I'll see if I can find some pics for you...
 
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