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Ready to start! Which oil???

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CaptRoy

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm going to attempt to start this thing Sunday!!!...What a ride...Everything new... Spent the entire evening building a blanking plug and relocating the passenger heater hose... Re-routed the choke though the old heater hose location, yea, with a 5/16 grommet...

So what oil to start with... I even called my guy that is helping me and he thinks we need an additive for zink! I was going to use Castrol 10-30.. He says no!!

It's a new motor, cam, lifters, roller rockers, basically everything...

What have you guys used for that first start??

I appreciate your input

Thanks,
 
It is really perplexing how sinsitive we become to opinion which has no real imperiacal support. Why are we not all using STP, Prolong (for cars now), Slick 50 etc. Surely a little of that stuff would make up for the lack of zinc; heck, I did not know zinc made oil a cam protectorate.

The following from the FTC (don't worry about zinc, big Bro is watching out for us) is really interesting about oil additives. How do you think this will change the shelves of WalMart and PepBoys? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Prolong Super Lubricants Settles FTC Charges

Performance Claims for Motor Oil Additive Were Unsubstantiated

Prolong Super Lubricants, Inc., marketer of one of the largest selling motor oil additives sold in the U. S., has agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that the firm made unsubstantiated claims for its automobile motor oil additive, Prolong Engine Treatment Concentrate (ETC). Prolong Super Lubricants, Inc. is based in Irvine, California.

The complaint detailing the charges alleges that Prolong made unsubstantiated claims that compared to motor oil alone, Prolong ETC:

reduces engine wear at start-up; and
extends the duration of engine life.
The complaint also alleges that Prolong made unsubstantiated claims that ETC:

reduces corrosion in engines; and
protects against engine breakdowns.
The complaint further alleges Prolong made unsubstantiated claims that:

benefits that may be achieved by using Prolong ETC in race cars or under racing conditions can be achieved in ordinary automobiles in conventional use; and
testimonials and endorsements of consumers made in advertising reflected the typical or ordinary experience of members of the public who use Prolong.
This settlement is the latest in a series of FTC law-enforcement initiatives targeting claims made by engine treatment manufacturers. The Commission recently charged the marketers of Dura Lube and Motor Up with making unsubstantiated claims for their brands of motor oil additives. Those complaints are awaiting administrative trial. The FTC previously halted allegedly deceptive advertising by the marketers of Valvoline, Slick 50, and STP, other major brands of engine treatment products.

The Prolong settlement would require scientific substantiation for a broad range of claims relating to Prolong ETC, or any other product sold for use in an automobile, relating to engine-wear reduction, engine-life extension, corrosion reduction, protection against engine breakdown, or racing benefits being achievable in ordinary driving. The settlement would also require substantiation for claims made for any product marketed by Prolong Super Lubricants, relating to the product's performance, benefits, efficacy, attributes or use.

In addition, the order would bar misrepresentations relating to tests, studies or research, and would bar misleading demonstrations, pictures, experiments or tests relating to any product's features, superiority or comparability. If Prolong employs user testimonials or endorsements in promotional material in the future to depict typical consumer experience with any product, it would be required to have scientific substantiation for the representation, or disclose what results ordinary consumers could expect to achieve, and the applicability of the endorser's experience. Finally, the settlement contains certain administrative record keeping and reporting provisions to allow the agency to monitor compliance.

The Commission vote to accept the proposed settlement was 4-0, with Commissioner Orson Swindle concurring in part and dissenting in part. In his statement, Commissioner Swindle said,

" I support the provisions in the proposed order prohibiting Prolong from making . . . claims in the future without adequate substantiation. The consent agreement, however, also contains provisions prohibiting Prolong, in connection with the sale of any product, from misrepresenting the existence or results of tests and from misrepresenting that a demonstration confirms the benefits of a product. While firms should not misrepresent the existence or results of tests or demonstrations, it is inappropriate to include specific establishment and demonstration requirements as remedies in an order without corresponding complaint allegations. In this case, and in others from the recent past, there is a troubling lack of symmetry between the complaint and the order."

An announcement regarding the proposed consent agreement will be published in the Federal Register shortly. The agreement will be subject to public comment for 60 days, after which the Commission will decide whether to make it final. Comments should be addressed to the FTC, Office of the Secretary, 6th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20580.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: Consent agreements are for settlement purposes only and do not constitute an admission of a law violation. When the Commission issues a consent order on a final basis, it carries the force of law with respect to future actions. Each violation of such an order may result in a civil penalty of $11,000.

Copies of the complaint, consent and Commissioner Swindle's statement are available from the FTC's web site at https://www.ftc.gov and also from the FTC's Consumer Response Center, Room 130, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20580; 877-FTC-HELP (877-382-4357); TDD for the hearing impaired 1-866-653-4261. Consent agreements subject to public comment also are available by calling 202-326-3627. To find out the latest news as it is announced, call the FTC NewsPhone recording at 202-326-2710.

MEDIA CONTACT:
Claudia Bourne Farrell
Office of Public Affairs
202-326-2181

STAFF CONTACT:
Gerald E. Wright
Western Region
415-356-5270
(FTC File No. 972 3014)
(prolong)
 
Hi CaptRoy, it seems the general consensus of opinion is to use Castrol 30W HD oil for the first 1000 Mi or so.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
I ALWAYS use a can of GM EOS (engine oil supplement) in a fresh engine. It contains zinc and other trace elements that are needed during break-in. Good stuff.

I think a straight 30 is a little heavy for break-in since tolerances MIGHT be a little tight during the first few miles...I'd use a 10W30 myself.

Use any oil and add EOS or use Delvac or Pennzoil Long Life during/after break-in. Shell Rotella 15/40 is available at Walmart and would probably OK to use too. I don't like it because my CAT dealer recommends ANY oil except Rotella which jives with my on-highway experience. But that's my personal opinion.

There aren't any real break-in oils anymore. When you re-do a HD diesel you simply use the same stuff you do for the rest of the engines lifespan.

Factory fill oils are the same as any over the counter oil.
 
"I ALWAYS use a can of GM EOS (engine oil supplement) in a fresh engine."
YankeeTR, how much of this product is recommended for a 5 qt. oil sump?
 
More important than which oil is to properly prime the oil system!

Take the time to pull out the distributor drive gear, make a drive shaft which will reach the oil pump and spin it with an electric drill. Just watch out, when oil pressure starts to rise, the drill will really kick back. The best oil in the world won't do anything if it is sitting in the sump while your bearing spin around dry. Once you get the oil flowing, I would also give the whole engine a few spins with the starter with the plugs out to make sure that the oil has coated everything.

When you put in the cam did you put special cam lube on?
Basically that is what the cam manufactures recomend.
 
Hi Roy.
What advice did Ted give you? Surely he put some assembly grease on the cam lobes. Assuming the cam was greased up, I personally would just load her up with Castrol 20/50 and crank. Your carbs from Gary Martin should be pre-adjusted (he usually does). The critical part comes in that all-important first few moments when your cam gets loaded.
Even with a few mis starts, you will need to get your rpm up a bit and let her run at about 2000 rpm.

web page

Roy, this preceeding web page gives a good description of another bloke doing the same thing.

Good luck. Do you have a bottle of Champagne handy? Are you privates up near your throat right about now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
I use Rotella 15w40 for the first 20 minutes at 2k rpm for breaking in the cam. Change oil and refill with Rotella 15w40 for the first 500 miles. Then it's Castrol 20W50 from that point on.

Dave
 
I strongly agree on the GM EOS. The local racing engine shop resommended it to me. The make a mix with the EOS and STP for assembly lube for every engine they build, then use straight weight 30 oil - no multi-vis - for cam break in.

Be certain NOT to BLIP the engine after starting it, even though it would sound cool, it wipes off the cam lobes and can cause damage.

Bring engine to around 2500rpm and hold it steady for 20 minutes or so, then shut down, drain fluid and let it cool.

Refill again with a good break-in oil mix for 500-100 miles, then change it again, this time use GTX or diesel oil if you like.

last thing .. C O N G R A T S ! ! ! !
 
[ QUOTE ]
Can you do that with a TR6?

[/ QUOTE ] priming the oil system

I don't see why not. the oil pump is driven off of the cam shaft directly below the distributor. Both the distributor and the oil pump run off of the same gear. The dist base comes off the gear is worked out (that is the hard part!) and then a long shaft with a drive tooth is needed to turn the oil pump. Give it a good spin with a drill.
I will be puting the engine I finished rebuilding back into my Herald hopefully soon (its only been out for 2 years...), and I most certainly will do this to make sure the engine is well oiled before starting it.

One other thought, when you put the oil pump in you did fill it with some oil? These pumps don't work well dry.
 
Thanks for the inputs guys... I talked to Ted and he used a quality assemble lube and cam lube... I have a tool to spin up the oil pressure and I agree that that is very important. Actuall Ted wants me to bring up the oil pressure three times before I attempt the start... I'll do that..

Thanks again,
 
Capt Roy,

I don't think you are considering it, but just in case:

Note: *No synthetic oils* for at least 1000 miles.

Depending on what rings were used, it might be better to stay with non-synthetic oils for the first 5000-6000 miles. (Some rings take a long time to seat properly.)

Enjoy the startup!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Capt Roy,

I don't think you are considering it, but just in case:

Note: *No synthetic oils* for at least 1000 miles.

Depending on what rings were used, it might be better to stay with non-synthetic oils for the first 5000-6000 miles. (Some rings take a long time to seat properly.)

Enjoy the startup!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Alan,

Don't forget that many new performance cars (Corvette and others) get Mobil 1 as a factory fill...
 
Yea they do get synth from the start but modern factory engine builds are already 'broken in' on delivery thru the controlled construction technique.
You can't seat or break in a home rebuild properly with synth. I've never met a pro builder/rebuilder say otherwise. They always warn against it as a way to 'undo' your work.
 
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