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TR6 Re-installing TR6 transmission

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Slider748

Slider748

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I've been attempting to re-install my tranny and after a couple of frustrating hours I finally managed to hang the front of the tranny on the two studs located at the top of the housing. Now I can't seem to push the tranny in any further. The tranny seems to be stuck on something and the rear sits higher than the front. Any advice? The car is currently level and up on jacks.
 
Slider, it's important to remember that the trany also supports the engine. When you remove the trany the rear of the motor drops. It's very decieving when trying to align for reinstallation.
Put a jack under the oil pan (with a block of wood or similar) & gently raise the rear end of the motor. An inch or two should do it. As long as the clutch is aligned it should slide in easily.
Some people like to use longer top studs to aid in alignment.

Give it a try , good luck.
 
Slider,
One other thing that I found when re-installing my transmission was that you can pretty much tell how you are lined up with the motor by taking a peak through the engine bay to compare the gap between the engine and the bell housing. With the transmission sitting on the pins, a look from both sides of the car will tell which way you'll need to move the engine to get it lined up. When the gap is even all the way around you should be able to push it home easily.
 
Did you replace the clutch? If so, you need to line up the splines and center the driven plate. You need either an input shaft or a tool for that. In a pinch, you could use a broom stick if it's the proper diameter, or a screwdriver. Also jacking the engine up a bit or even lowering as you try to slide it in is needed.
 
Thanks for the advice. I was a bit hesitant to raise the engine from the oil pan. I haven’t replaced the clutch so a clutch alignment tool won’t be necessary. I did a search on re-installing the tranny and it seems like it’s suppose to be a fairly easy job so I figured I must be doing something wrong. I'll give it another go soon.
 
I think the main challenge is getting the input shaft to fit into the clutch - you can put the tranny in gear and rotate the output flange back and forth to get the splines to line up. Pete
 
The suggestion to "play" with the enging height using a jack is a good one. I too found that helped. One thing that I did not se mentioned and that is most helpful is to put the tranny in gear and "jiggle" or "rotate" the output a bit. If you have the bad luck of having your tranny splines and your clutch splines exaclty out or match then it will not go in. All you need to do is rotate the the tranny ouput such that the input shaft spins one sline over and they will be lined up. Though it sounds like you might be in farther then that if your studs have already made it to the bell housing.
 
The top portion is hanging on the two studs but the bottom is further away. So much so that the tranny is at an angle to the engine. I can't seem to bring the bottom portion down so that the bell housing is equal distance all around. Hope this makes sense. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
You need to jack up more on the bottom of the engine, but be careful, as the edge up your bellhousing will hit the firewall and can possibly dent it. Also, if it really will not go on, take it back off and check that the throwout bearing is still secured and in place in the fork. I've had it come slightly out of place before and keep the tranny from going on right. I also think that I may have bent the throwout bearing very slightly by trying to force it on, which may be the reason my clutch doesn't engauge and disengage smoothly.
 
I hate to ask, the starter isn't bolted on is it? Don't ask me how I know to ask this question
 
The starter isn't bolted on, I checked...twice. Webb Sledge, I'm relunctant to take the tranny off the studs because it took me 2 hours to get it on, but it looks like I may have to do that to check if I broke/bent something. Is this part of the ownership experience that I'm suppose to be enjoying?
 
Where do you think they got the saying "are we having fun yet" . You have to pull the trany back off to see what the problem is . When everything is aligned is won't take two hours , but only two minutes. That's the differance with right & wrong, something is wrong. Nothing would be worse than bolting it together & it not working properly on the test run.
You must support the engine by lifting under the oil pan. No damage will happen unless you try to lift the car by jacking it up way too much.
Webb is probably correct , the T/O bearing may have slid off the fork. When all is aligned you are going to laugh at how easily this slides together.
 
If the back of the engine and the front of the tranny are not paralell then it will not go in. I had the same problem with my TR4A. An other thing that helped was having two people. When I was alone it was a pain. Once I got the engine high enough and had a second pair of hands (and muscles) it just slipped in.

It is just one of those things that either goes great or is a pain then seems to work just fine. 20 years ago I did My TR3A by myself and it took all of ten seconds. This year my TR4A took fore ever. Good luck it will work out in the end.
 
I've seen newly rebuilt trannys not go in because the splines on the shaft had slight burs. A little smoothing with an emery cloth is all it took to get it on its way. Good luck. As was said before, when it's right, it only takes two minutes.
 
One word, actually 3, CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL, well worth the $5-$10 it costs.
 
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