• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Radiator overflow tank?

twas_brillig

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
This thread discusses the above (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...flow#Post485737 ) but I've seen comments scattered in other areas (eg a chap using a Fiat overflow tank).
Could those who have made this improvement kindly advise as to what they used (rad cap; tank; location of tank; if there's a difference between Healeys; whatever) and perhaps we could collect all the wisdom in a single thread.
Thanks
Doug
 
I used the overflow tank from an MG Midget (found a NOS unit cheaper than a reproduction); I believe the last run of MGBs (77-80) used the same tank.

NAPA sells an appropriate radiator cap that fits the Healey's deep neck, and is made to use in conjunction with an <span style="font-style: italic">open to atmosphere</span> coolant recovery tank. I don't have the part number immediately in front of me, but a search here under Dave Russell's screen name should turn up the thread where he gave me the part number.

For the overflow tank cap, I gutted a standard radiator cap so that it would only seal on the top of the tank neck, leaving the vent port open to atmosphere. This is vital to operation.

So far, it has been working flawlessly; never any coolant on the ground after any type of driving (wild to mild) and whenever I remove the main radiator cap (cold), the water level is immediately below the bottom of the neck (meaning that the upper tank is completely full__all expansion taking place in the recovery tank).



IMG_4693.jpg


IMG_4694.jpg


IMG_4695.jpg
 
I have followed my knowledgeable Volvo P1800 design.Which is called a closed syatem by them.

It has an neat snap in bracket that can be fixed to the right hand radiator side frame. This makes the bottle easily removable for what ever reason and keeps it pretty much out of site.Ths compact bottle contains a 10LB psi cap that insures no leakage unless you have a serious heating problem when it will vent. Works like a charm.
Lower pressure caps 7PSI are available for standard radiator cores.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
In a discussion with Norman Nock a number of years ago he pointed out that these tanks were not needed under normal use. Just don't fill the rad over in inch from the top of the rad fins. That extra is what is overflowing under normal conditions.
 
:savewave:-TH

That was back in merry old England where the temperature rarely gets above 70 degrees and you are runing on the carriage way instead of "B" roads-----Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Keoke said:
That was back in merry old England where the temperature rarely gets above 70 degrees and you are runing on the carriage way instead of "B" roads-----Keoke-- :laugh:


Norman lived in Stockton, CA where it routinely reaches triple digit temperatures in the summer. I suspect his advice would reflect that experience.

I run coolant a couple inches below the top and never get overflow (just overfill the radiator when you change coolant and let it find its own level).
 
Hi All,

Randy, great looking engine and interior….very impressive.

I am a proponent of a non-pressurized cooling recovery system and used a discarded gear oil container mounted on the right of my radiator. By simply installing a NAPA (Balkamp 703-1411) supplied radiator recovery cap and installing a tube and air hole in the container cap. This system has maintained the high level of fluid in the radiator for the past 2 years (including the hottest on record) and has not required any coolant addition.

https://lh3.ggpht.com/_B2b-Q7N9UVw/THqAUI...20Container.jpg

https://lh4.ggpht.com/_B2b-Q7N9UVw/THqAqy...ry-Radiator.JPG

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Norman lived in Stockton, CA where it routinely reaches triple digit temperatures in the summer. I suspect his advice would reflect that experience.


:shocked:

Dididn't he tell you about the time he was stuck on the side of the road waiting for the car to cool down on his way to Death Valley.

:savewave:

OH!!Norman. always carried a gallon of distilled water in the boot so he could keep her topped up after a boil over------Keoke-- :laugh:
 
Nah, didn't get those stories. Anyway, a boilover's a different situation than just the normal expansion of the coolant--not sure a recovery bottle is the answer for that, but it couldn't hurt, I guess. I always carry 2 gallons of tap water on my longer trips--fits perfect behind the passenger seat. Figure I can use it for the radiator or for drinking if I break down in Eighty-Miles-from-Nowhere, NV.

Worst heat I have encountered was 115deg in the shade in Death Valley. Driving through the Valley it got so hot I was hallucinating. Pulling the grade out of the Valley westward to the Panamint mountains we were indicating 212deg, so we turned on the heater--not too pleasant--and kept her under boiling. There were lots of cars and a tourist bus on the side of the road with their bonnets up.

Death Valley is one of my favorite places on the planet.
 
Just called a local supplier and asked for a NAPA Balkamp 703-1411;; they advised using a Stant 10206 for a bit less than 7 bucks. Comments anyone?
I've bought another windshield washer "cage" and found that an old Nalgene backpacking water bottle fits perfectly; figured I'd drop the "cage" into the hole in the fender support on the carb side and route the overflow hose over there; the hole in the passenger side fender support has the standard windshield washer bottle and cage relocated from under the dash and the map shelf.
Doug
 
Doug,
I would go for the NAPA Balkamp 703-1411 as I have been having good experiences with this unit and see no reason to risk an unknown Stant. Also, as I remember, the Balkamp was only a couple of cents higher than $7.00 and, unless the price has gone bonkers recently, should be reasonably close to the Stant.

Based upon the description you provided, I assume you will not be creating a pressurized overflow system. In this case, you will need to keep the recovery container as close to the radiator overflow as possible so that the vacuum will be sufficient for full recovery. I would suggest you mount your cage to the passenger side of the radiator using the radiator bolts as a convenient attachment. This will allow you to follow the original path of the overflow tube over the top tank and down into the recovery container.

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
The supplier I checked with didn't have the Balkamp, so not a price concern. Sure makes sense to make some more phone calls and get the 703-1411 though.
The recovery container won't be pressurized; and you certainly made a good point about looking at tubing length and change of elevation. The car is in storage until the snow melts - I'll have a look at the overall tubing length and relative heights in a couple of months. I expect I'll give my proposed layout a shot to see if it works (I like the aesthetics of having a 'water' bottle on each side of the engine compartment)and will relocate it per your suggestion if it doesn't.
Thanks Ray!
Doug
 
Back
Top