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TR2/3/3A Radiator mounting bolts on TR3

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TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
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Can someone give me advice on how to remove and install the bottom mounting bolts on a TR3. The radiator shield under the radiator completely blocks the bolt from below. Is there some special tool or something that will reach and work on those mounting bolts? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
I recall sneaking in there with something to undo those -- won't an open end wrench get to them?

Once out I dremeled off the nuts welded to the mounts and welded some bolts vertically thru the underside of the frame fitting so the thing installs with nuts from above.

<span style="font-style: italic">Okay, now that I look at some of my pix I think I used some combination of u-joint sockets &/or wobble extensions. A PITA but can be done if you can find the right combination.

Here's some detail on the alternate mounting method I used to make it easy next time:</span>

RadiatorMount2.jpg


RadiatorMount3.jpg
 
In case it isn't obvious yet, the radiator shield has to come out. Use a wrench to grab the nut inside the shield, socket & ratchet to undo the bolt on each side. With the bolts pulled partway out, the shield will slide out through the front of the frame.

Like Bob, I used a 1/4" drive to remove the radiator bolts, but I also used a "wobble" extension to get just a little bit more room.

DSCF0006_crop.jpg


DSCF0007_crop.jpg
 
I've managed to remove those bolts using a universal joint socket without removing the radiator guard. A little tricky, but doable. The important thing is that after you get the bolts out, use the trick Don Elliott shows in this thread of slotting the end of the bolt. Then you just have to loosen the bolt and screw it out. Also makes putting it back in a whole lot easier.
 

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Thank you!!! I'll give it another try using those techniques. I will definitely put a slot in the bolt to make it easier to get the bolt out.
Regards,
Bob
 
I used an offset box wrench. The downside to this was I could only turn it 1/8 turn at a time...But it worked for me.
 
Thanks again for the help. I was able to get the bolts out today. I used a combination of 1/4 drive socket, with universal joint and long extension, and then when that had no more room to move down, I reverted to a regular open end 9/16 inch wrench and that was slow going but eventually did the job.

My next task is to figure out how to get the block stop cock handle to turn. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster and even sprayed some in the drain hole, and I put a short pipe on the handle for leverage, but so far it's not moving.
Regards,
Bob
 
TuffTR250 said:
My next task is to figure out how to get the block stop cock handle to turn. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster and even sprayed some in the drain hole, and I put a short pipe on the handle for leverage, but so far it's not moving.
Click to expand...

My suggest, remove it from the engine then disassemble it. That will be much less likely to break it than trying to force it to turn. And it will likely need the spring and washer replaced anyway.
 
If it won't turn, it is likely got so much build up behind it that it will not even leak when you remove it from the block...at least that's been my experience. If that's the case, you will have to dig a lot of the build-up out of the block to get the petcock to work, even after you fix it.

John
 
<span style="font-size: 11pt"> <span style="color: #009900">Now when you're to re-assemble it, try this
radiator.jpg

No cutting or welding, thanks to the late Bob Shaller.</span> </span>
 
The suggestion of using a 5/16 bolt and jam nut seems like an easy way to solve the problem for the next time the radiator needs to be pulled. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
But what is the easiest way to remove the radiator on TR3? must be remove the complete front of the car? :frown-new::frown-new:
Thanks AUGU
 
augu said:
...must be remove the complete front of the car?
Click to expand...

Yes. I can't imagine any other practical way. For years I dreaded the day when I would have to do this, was finally forced to by a broken timing chain tensioner. In the end it was not a bad job at all and a good chance to take care of lots of other things while I was in there (including a re-core of the radiator).

TurnSignalWires2.jpg


If you do not know the age of your tensioner &/or if your front seal is leaking a bit, those would be candidates for extra credit work while the apron is off. I also went with new engine mounts, new hoses, tropical fan -- all a matter of how far you want to go.
 
Great advice George. I sold my '62 TR3B back in "the day" because of a cooling system problem, during one of the coldest winters in Indiana history. I lived in an apartment and did all my repairs in the parking lot. Have been sorry ever since that I let that car get away. I should have ridden the bus to work until spring and fixed the Triumph. I've had the apron off my current car at least twice, and it's really not all that bad.
 
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