• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Rack and Pinion Conversion for 3000

Scotsman

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
Would be interested in hearing from anyone who has done a rack and pinion conversion on a 3000. I have done it on a TR3 and it transforms the handling of the car to having precise light steering vs heavy steering when maneuvering at slow speeds, and constantly correcting the steering on the open road. Even a well-adjusted non-worn steering box on a TR3 doesn't compare. The purists will always frown on these types of conversions, but if they are fully reversible (bolt-in) and improve the driving experience, why not?
 
Jule Enterprises used to sell a kit for rack and pinion for a 3000. I am sure there is another kit out there also. I just finished a 64 BJ8 and the steering is very easy. So check your bits first before spending the money.
 
There is also a kit for replacing the trunnion bushings with needle bearings.
 
I did do a rack and pinion conversion on my TR3. My daughters and wife needed easier steering. The conversion kits do NOT take care of the bump steer that happens once you change the rack. I had to spend hours shimming and measuring to get rid of the problem.
 
There are a couple of kits out there for the tr3. I installed the Revington TR kit which is the best one. The kit includes replacement control arms that correct the ackermann angle issue (inherent in the tr3 ) when steering, and reduces bump steer. They use a TR7 rack that is offset from the steering column allowing it to fold/collapse on impact. The steering lock even IMPROVES allowing for tighter turns. The Moss kit does not correct for bump steer, ackermann angle, and you loose a significant amount of turning circle which sucks in tight spots. People buy the moss kit because it is a pure bolt in. The Revington kit does require you to weld on two brackets but is far superior, relatively simple to install, and fully reversible.
 
Last edited:
If memory serves, the Jule kit was based on Ford`s Mustang II and meant that you lost the trafficator system for signal lights. We`re running the wide 72 spoke rims, adjustable camber plates, and the needle bearings that Bob Haskell referenced, and are quite satisfied with the steering, tracking, and required effort. Doug
 
There was a BJ8 for sale, at think at an online auction, a few months ago. It claimed to have a Jule frame with R&P. From the side photos, it appeared as if the front wheels were set back in the wheel wells an inch or so, which didn't look quite right. Would this be a consequence of the R&P installation?
 
Reg trafficator, you are correct due to the wiring going up through the steering column. The conversion involves replacing the lower tubular column with a solid one along w a universal joint. On my tr3 i use a toggle signal switch from the bug eye mounted where the od switch would be (i have a 5 speed conversion) and a horn button mounted under dash. The trafficator remains in place to maintain looks. There is an adaptor now available that enables you to keep the horn functionality of the trafficator. It mounts on the column above the universal joint with a contact riding on a slide.
The addition of the switches is so subtle that in the 5 years since I made the conversion no one at shows has ever commentated on them.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top