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Racing Midgets

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vping

vping

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This is something that I have thinking about for a very long time so I am hoping this will be a lengthy one.
How does one go about racing MG Midgets?
Do you need prior experience in any type of racing?
What kind of money do you need to take a stock Midget & get it ready enough just to get it on the track?
 
vping:

Please look at the EMRA website.
www.emraracing.org

And before you spend any money or time, come to an event and see what it is all about. Hang around the pits, look at the cars and talk to all of us who drive these things. EMRA is very low-key and you are always welcome. Spend a day flagging and watch the cars (we'll pay you $100 a day if you pre-register to flag). *Then* decide if you want to get involved.
I've seen a lot of people work on "race car projects" that never get done because they think they have to have a race car to go to the track. I know a guy who has been building a racing Mini for 30 years and has never driven it!
We just voted on our EMRA '06 schedule and it will be posted real soon. We will be at Pocono, Lime Rock, BeaveRun and Summit Point (we're not running Watkins GLen this year since they are re-paving during our normal Fall date).
If you do want to run at the track, run a "Time Trial" first. You can bring a normal street car in Time Trials if you want. We have guys who run TTs in cars like a Jetta wagon, stock Saturn, Maxima, Taurus, etc.
You can see what some of this looks like by looking at my "Race Pix" link below. Also, look at the photos on the EMRA website.
Look at the car prep part of the EMRA website for more specific car info and then write me if you have any questions.
 
Often racing (time trials/road races) require a lot of roll cage/bar for midgets. I would recommend sticking to autocross with a street midget. However, building a road race car isn't that difficult if you're willing to put a cage in it (like Nial's car). However, unless you're pretty short, you won't be able to get a top on it at the same time.

As far as competitive autocrossing goes, a set of race tires (which will fit on stock wheels) will run you about $110 per tire, plus install. Assuming the car is already in good running order and conforms to 'stock' rules, you can basically only change the front swaybar. Total cost: say 450 for tires, installed on a set of stock wheels, and $150 for a new front swaybar. The tires would be good for about 2 years, and I know that Yokohamas do fit (but I have a panhard rod to control rear axle motion). I'd stick to stock rules as much as possible, but if you'd like to go time trialing or hill-climbing later, you can always stick a roll bar in it and get the required additional safety equipment. This will allow you to hillclimb/time trial (at least in the SCCA) in the stock class. If you want to go to the road racing classes (i.e. E,F,G,H Production) you'll need a full cage (which would also make you road race legal).
 
Yes, autocross can be fun as well.
In the northeast, a good website for autocross would be:

https://www.autox4u.com/

Or for track days:

https://vista.pca.org/jsr/jsrpca/dales.htm

Matthew is correct that you may have to spend some money to be truly competitive, but I would not invest too much at first.
I would start on ordinary street tires as long as they are safe. Make sure nothing is loose or worn on suspension.
If you wish to use your MG, it should really have a standard single-hoop roll bar (required by EMRA.....others may not require this, but it seems like a bad idea to run a convertible without one). These are $269 USD from Autopower plus shipping or you may be able to have one built locally for less. The roll bar should clear your helmet by 2". If you are tall and this is a problem, you may wish to invest in a thin, fiberglass seat which you could install just for track days. These are about $35 USD from Summit Racing. Normal seat belts are fine. I would leave everthing else stock at first.

Autopower Roll Bar info:
https://www.safedrives.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AutopowerStreetRollBar&cat=72

Summit Racing seat:
https://store.summitracing.com/default.as...mp;x=35&y=4

Honestly, if you have a normal hard top sedan available, I would just use that at first. When you are first learning this stuff, you can do just as well driving GrandMa's Buick (if she'll lend it to you). Most groups will be happy to provide an instructor for newcomers (I do this all the time at EMRA events). For the first few events, you need to learn very basic concepts....don't worry about having the best or fastest car. Later on, if you really like autocross, track days or racing, you can invest some money in it.
 
The $269 roll bar bolts right to the back shelf on a midget right? Does it have any more substantial backing plates that would be in the wheel well? How about a center or rear cross bar. Is that req'd?
 
The normal Autopower roll bar is fine without a cross bar, for autocross or track days at most clubs. The back braces to the rear shelf are fine.
I run my Miata in EMRA Time Trials with a very similar bar.
I ran my Spridget with a similar bar until I started actual racing. Then I added the rest of cage to the existing rear hoop.
By the way, I am not sure if the Autopower bar with clear the fold-up top on your car. Older Spridgets with "erector set" tops are no problem. You may want to ask and see if you can get accurate dimensions from Autopower.
Again, personally, I wouldn't do anything to the car until you come to an event and see what it's all about.
 
I am very interested & need to find out when the first event is.
 
....also does the car need to be titled, registered & or have a NY state inspection in order to race. Long story that I will splain later.
 
The autopower bar will clear the top (the street one, that is). As a matter of fact, I shimmed mine with 2" thick aluminum blocks and it STILL fits under the top. You can just see the slightest bit of the main hoop pushing at the canvas of the top.
 
Matt:
That's interesting.....I did the exact same thing with my original street roll bar.

vping:
Your car does not need to be street registered or inspected if used for Time Trial or racing. We don't ask to see titles, but if you trailer it, you may wish to bring along some proof of ownership if stopped in a routine police road-block. I always bring my title, but I have never been asked about it, even when we go over to Canada to race. But whatever you do, EMRA doesn't need to see anything.

Our official EMRA schedule has not been posted on our site yet, but I have it. You can go our site next week and it should be up ( www.emraracing.org )
Anyway, I'm pasting it in below as well:

<u>2006 EMRA Schedule</u>

April 22, 23 Shenandoah Circuit @ Summit Point
Sat - Time Trials
Sun Sprint Races

May 6, 7 Pocono South
Sat - Time Trials & 2-day Race School
Sun - Sprint Races + 2nd day of Race School

June 3, 4 BeaveRun
Sat - Sprint Races & 2HR Enduro
Sun Double Sprint Races

June 29 (Thursday) Pocono North
Time Trials

August 8 (Tuesday) Pocono East
Time Trials + OpenWheel Sprints

August 19 Pocono Long Course (PDA-NASA)
1HR Enduro

September 9, 10 Pocono North
Sat - Sprint Races & 2HR Enduro
Sun - Time Trials

October 27, 28 (Fri/Sat) Lime Rock
Fri - Time Trials
Sat - Sprint Races & 1HR Enduro

November 18, 19 Summit Point
Sat - Sprint Races & 4HR Enduro
Sun - Sprint Races, Time Trials, & Race School


NOTE: Time Trial/Track Day School available at all EMRA Time Trial events
 
I opted for the cross bar on my Autopower roll bar for two reasons. (1)a place to attach harness (2)help stiffen up the tub.
For SCCA sanctioned autocross if your helmet is not 2" below the top of the bar you cannot use a shoulder harness.
Lap belt only.
 
[ QUOTE ]

For SCCA sanctioned autocross if your helmet is not 2" below the top of the bar you cannot use a shoulder harness.
Lap belt only.

[/ QUOTE ]

Is that where you're attaching your shoulder harnesses to the cage? I thought those wanted to be an inch or two below shoulder level?
 
No, you're not attaching the should straps 2" above your head, you simply cannot have shoulder straps if there is: 1) No roll bar or 2) you have a bar but it's not 2" above your head.

Guidelines that most companies suggest for harness attachment are the shoulder straps should be between 20 degrees above your shoulder to 5 degrees below a line (parallel with the ground) at your shoulder.
 
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