Race car construction details

[dklawson]

I have always cut free-hand with the shears I have. Though they are called "shears", they are really just an electric nibbler. If you are careful, you can follow a scribed or pencil line pretty well.

The brand I have are Clarke. I don't think anyone sells them in the U.S. at the moment. They are nearly identical to the Harbor Freight model 92115. They say the shears can cut up to 14 gage sheet. That is not really possible and unwise. They are good to about 16 gage aluminum and perhaps 18 gauge steel and stainless.

 

[DrEntropy]

Same here. The electric nibbler makes a nice smooth cut, only downside is the 1/4" of material lost. If you plan the shapes accordingly (multiple bits from one sheet) it's an acceptable loss. No distortion of the panel is a 'good thing'. :wink:

 

[bigjones]

Doug and Doc,

Many thanks - I just might pick up that nibbler from HF next time I'm down in the big city. (I'm planning on making another carb heat shield)

Cheers!

 

[TomMull]

I cut close to the line with nibblers or hand held electric sheers then trim exactly to the scribe line with aviation or or straight hand shears. Works fine for me, both for straight cuts and for most curves. Tom

 

[Hap Waldrop]

That looks like Carl Cason's race car, been friends with him for years, good guy, he made one of those trick cold air boxes, anyone interested, it's still new, I never got around to using, now focusing on building a MGB race car.

I've raced SCCA production car for years as well, mostly Spridgets and MGBs, and built most of my own cars, so I did a bit of sheetmetal work myself, here's a few sample of some sheetmetal work i di on a SCCA Midget rce car I built form stratch.

 

[bigjones]

Hap,

Very cool - thanks for posting. Nice workmanship!
(Yes, that is Carl Cason's racer.)

Cheers!

 

[jlaird]

Tipical Hap work, makes me so sad that I can no longer play with you guys.