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Quick Q on heaters.....

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Baz

Baz

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PO rerouted the coolant hoses because 'the heater didn't work'. I've narrowed that down to the heater valve being stuck, and I mean stuck closed. Not to worry there, get a new one, no biggie.
How do I see if the heater does indeed work without the heater valve (the [D]PO also cut the heater control cable) because I would like it to have it, even if it is hamster breath.
And.....
Can someone please post a pic of their bay, just so I can follow the hoses, if it's hooked up right, and similar year etc.... TIA /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Earlier car ('64), but the coolant/heater hoses are probably pretty similar.

engplugside.jpg


The hose from the heater valve on the block runs straight back to the heater. The return hose runs from the top corner of the heater box forward through the copper tubing to a fitting that leads to the bottom radiator hose.
 
Hey Ronzi

can i see a picture of those air cleaners? and were did you get them?
 
Raymond:
Thanks for your interest in the air cleaners. I posted a pic of them on another thread (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/321280/page/1#Post321280)

The velocity stacks I got a bunch of yrs ago off a "sale" table at a britcar parts place, the air cleaner mounts I fabbed out of some sheet aluminum. The filter elements are from NAPA, originally for a Briggs & Stratton 10-12 hp engine, pt. no. 7-02701, and lots cheaper than a similar size K&N.

Sorry for hijacking this thread.
 
Nice engine bay, ronzi!

The heaters in the B will make TOAST, Barry. In western PA winters I would have to dial it back after a while.
 
Doc, I agree - MGB heaters that are properly maintained will warm the interior quite toastely...now, proper maintenance means, flushing the little heater core, making sure the under dash vent hses are still intact & not cracked, broken, or squashed, making sure gaskets & seals are still in place & that the door operates properly - plus, full flow through the heater valve is imperative.
 
Thank you all.
I have absolutely every intention of keeping the heater; I just drained it, and nice fresh coolant with no gunk came out. The control cable I can deal with later, but the valve itself....for the purposes of getting the car running, I'll bypass for now, repair later, I'm missing the copper tube too. Grrrrr.
Why don't DPOs just fix things? Instead of replacing the valve, he had to do some song and dance with 8 ft of rubbing tubing that looks like a snakes wedding. Grrr again.
 
Well, I admit I've bung'd off heater hoses with spare sparkplugs and hose clamps to get to where I was going... but I replaced the faulty valve ASAP. I learned from ONE experience to always keep a blanking plate the size/shape of the heater valve mounting in on-board spares. That trip was a long frustrating and COLD one.
 
DrEntropy said:
Well, I admit I've bung'd off heater hoses with spare sparkplugs and hose clamps to get to where I was going... but I replaced the faulty valve ASAP. I learned from ONE experience to always keep a blanking plate the size/shape of the heater valve mounting in on-board spares. That trip was a long frustrating and COLD one.
Click to expand...

Of all things, even though the one on the engine is new, I have a spare valve in the tool bag.
happy0035.gif
LOL,
happy0035.gif
ok,ok I'll admit it's a little crazy and No, I don't have a spare water pump, alternator, transmission, etc,etc in there too.
happy0148.gif
They won't fit in the bag.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Why don't DPOs just fix things?[/QUOTE]

Come spend a day with me while I'm disassembling an old car from my MG Graveyard....you'd be amazed at what DPO's do!
 
Just when ya think you've seen everything... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif


How's a piece of all-thread as a replacement Jaguar HEAD STUD strike ya?
 
Just wanted to be sure about something....
I have both types of hose, #35 that has the rubber extension, I also have the steel elbow and associated hoses.
MGB-009.gif

Can I use either one of these, as long as the return from the heater goes into hose that is connected to the water pump/bottom hose?
Because I had a DPO hose snakes wedding going on and no copper tube, does that attach to the (with the clips) to the manifold studs, or where?
PS Thanks for the parts Tony!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I have both types of hose, #35 that has the rubber extension, I also have the steel elbow and associated hoses.[/QUOTE]

Either works well - if the rubber hose is new, I'd use it as the metal piece is just another piece that corrodes & has 2 more hose clamps to leak.

Look on page 20 of the Moss catalog (emissions page)...you'll see your lower heater hose & where the copper piece from the heater connects to it
 
Thank you.
All plumbed in.
I wish I'd have attached the bottom hose before bolting the radiator in, oh well, I'll know better next time.
 
Handwritten note in Bentley manual: "Install bottom radiator hose before installing rad - make sure clamp is turned to bottom so hose can be removed in car if necessary" 2nd Note: "When removing rad, just slice the old hose loose to let coolant drain - you need a new hose anyway!"
 
3rd note....wear kevlar gloves if note #1 is ignored.




<span style='font-size: 8pt'> yes Jeff</span> /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif
 
mehheh.

A line of reasoning (mine, actually), Barry: The molded three-way hose is harder to find/replace than the 'corrugated' ones and 1/2" is available everywhere. I use the metal junction because of this. I keep one spare upper/lower in the boot, along with a length of 1/2" and the short bit from pump to union. This is a lesson learnt in the early '70's, BTW.
 
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