• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Question on primer after getting fenders stripped

Share this page

T

tdskip

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Hi folks some newbie painting questions for you,

I'm getting a couple TR4 & TR6 fenders dipped next week and I'm thinking of running them over to Earl Scheib to get them primed right away.

Anything that I specifically need to make sure that Earl Scheib does to make sure they are properly protected?

They quoted me $500-600 for 8 fenders in total. Sound about right?

Thanks!
 
Getting them coated right away is a good idea. Even though it is not real visible at first, oxidation will start to set in quickly. Personally after I strip/sandblast a part, I alway coat the parts with epoxy primer. Have you thought of doing this yourself? Is the price they are charging you for is just to prime them? What are they going to use to prime them?
 
I was a paint newbie myself a few years ago. I decided to strip the paint down to bare metal then whoops, no place to paint. I tried to find a shop that would paint but no luck. Nobody wanted the liability I guess. Luckily my next door neighbor had a garage and an interest in learning how to paint...

I manually sanded all the paint off - a process I would not recommend. I think bead blasting would have been much better. It took a couple months (yes, I work slow) to get all of the paint stripped. By the time I finished some oxidation was showing up on the earlier stripped fenders.

I used PPG paint for both the primer and the final finish. Prior to applying the primer I rubbed everything out with a PPG product that removed all oxidation. It worked really well. I don't remember brand names for the 'pre-prime' but if you describe it to a PPG dealer he'll (she'll) know what you mean. I painted the car about 10 years ago and see no evidence of rust - except where rust was originally.

$800 for some fenders? Seems real high - I think my paint (primer and finish) only ran a couple hundred dollars.

Ok, at this point I realize I'm rambling - If you have a garage to paint in do so. Put plastic sheeting all around the walls (to protect your stuff and cut down on the dust), rent a compressor and spray gun and have some fun.

Oh, I almost forgot. Where the fenders showed signs of rust before I stripped the paint - they again show signs of rust. I thought I removed all oxidation but must have left some on. I don't know if there is a trick to rust removal but if there was any at all, it will show back up if not completely removed.

Good luck

Pete
 
Cost seems unrealistic to me. $100 for materials and the rest is profit. Remember , primer DOESN'T PROTECT from rusting, it is porous. Should use a sealer, preferably urethane or epoxy. Bob
 
Thanks guys. I got them down on price some, but still seems high to me.

I don't really have the room but I am severely tempted to buy a guy and do it myself.

The primer they wanted to use was NOT and epoxy primer, which defeats the point. I'll find out tomorrow what a bottom line price would be with a proper Dupont or PPG epoxy primer and then report back.

Thanks again!
 
I agree $800 is outrageous! Especially for second rate paint. PPG is an excellent paint. I used the OMNI line in their primers for cost purposes when I painted my TR250. Use the epoxy primer over bare metal for the best seal. It will even seal oxidation you can't see. Another benefit is you can bondo over it after scuffing the surface for excellent adhesion.

If the rust is scally you might want to cut it out and patch it. It is very hard to make a lasting repair over rust. You may grind away too much of the surface to get all the pits out leaving the metal too thin to anything with it. Or, sand blast the rust and then metal prep it for 10 to 15 minuets by keeping the surface wet and do not let it dry. Then rinse with water. Dry and use your epoxy primer over the etched metal. You could save a step and purchase some self etching primer. This etches the primer into the blasted area and helps neutralize SOME of the micro rust that blasting doesn't get. That's why the first method is better.

The best epoxy primer I ever used is by Val Spar. Applied very nicely and even sanded terrific. Most epoxy primers sand poorly. That's why urethane primers are so popular. They have a high build and sand like a glaze putty. They should not be used over bare metal. They do shrink over time too so don't cheat. Good luck!
 
Epoxy primer isn't meant to be sanded. However, if the primed part sits for over a week it needs to be scuffed up before going with primer surfacer.

The price quoted is way high for them not even to use epoxy. I guess that the cost of work in CA. For that price you could buy a compressor, gun and the primer and do it yourself (if you can find the space).
 
Hmmm... since my plan was to get the fenders dipped and primered to store them, then it sounds like I'm better off waiting until the car is ready to be painted for good and spraying urethane since the fenders will need work. Sounds like if I spray with epoxy them I'm going to have a tough time doing the body work when that time comes.

On the flip side - if I spray with epoxy I could put them back on the car and drive it since it will provide protection against moisture. No?
 
I liked your original plan. Body filler can be put on over or under the epoxy primer. I use PPG DP by the way. Even if you decide to put filler directly on the metal (which is what I do) I just sand off the epoxy in the area I will be skimming with body filler. Then I will recover the area with epoxy primer again. I know others will advise against it, but you can drive with only the epoxy primer. I did a little experiment on one of my other cars. I sandblased the rusty roof of my car with a very fine abrasive. I covered it with epoxy primer. It has been seven years now and there is no rust. The only problem I see is that it becomes sort of "chalky". I am not an experienced car painter - I know my limitations. I find I can do a much better job at prepping than most body shops. And with the prices they charge, I found it acually cheaper to buy the equipment/supplies and do it myself.
Kevin
 
Thanks again for all of the help.

So I spoke to the pain shop again this AM and pushed them on just using the Dupont 625s non-expoxy primer and they said they would actually be putting a sealing primer on top of the base Dupont 625s primer.

So if the top primer is a sealer and forms a moisture proof barrier I should be OK then, and still have an easier time sanding when I start in on the body work, yes?
 
Hi:
For what it's worth I wouldnt have Scheib pint anything that I own. Find a shop that does custom work. They will give you an honest answer to most of your questions. Stay away from companies that do insurance work. They are production shops and don't want to mess with custom stuff.

Good luck, Tinkerman
 
Whoops, a little spelling erroe in that one. I meant paint not pint. I even proof read it!
Tinkerman
 
The posts above have danced around this issue which is related to the success of your overall project. Choose the top-coat you're going to use first, then choose compatible components from the same manufacturer. If you're going to use DuPont paint, use DuPont primers and sealers. If the local shops don't/won't spray DuPont, choose a good paint that they do work with. If you're not doing the actual painting, the choice of manufacturer is less important.

I've used PPG, DuPont, Martin-Senour and a couple of Martin-Senour's re-badged products. Of the three, I like PPG products the best followed by DuPont. However, paint systems are always changing and improving (apart from cost... that never improves). It's been 3 years since my last painting experience and that was with PPG's DCC system. You can do this yourself but like all painting you need to practice.
 
Dirk - that is basically what I get out of the stripping process. I used a similar local company on my TR6 fuel tank and was very impressed.

Excellent point on using compatible materials too!

Thanks guys!
 
Back
Top