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Question-Oil routeing.
- Thread starter jlaird
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Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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The mains are fed from the oil galleys, all the cam bearing are fed from the oil galley via the main saddles, except the rear cam bearing, the rods are fed by the main journal orfices in the crankshaft, the rear cam bearing is fed directly by the oil pump since it's right there.
Jack, after a block is caustic washed, and before assembly I always hot water and soap wash my blocks, this is a excellent time to follow the trail of oil so to speak, it gives you a better understanding of what going on in there and how the oil travels in a block.
Here's a short list of what I've seen cause low oil pressure in our engines before.
1. Damaged oil pump, always take them apart and look at them, if use, make sure you take both the drive and scroll out of the housing, I've seen drives that were scared and scrolls that were cracked into a couple pieces, and none of theis was that noticable in the housing, ever with the back cover off.
2. Jack you should have a pin drive camshaft and oil pump, are both the oil drive on that end and the pin in the back of the cam in good shape.
3. Too much clearence on rod or main bearings or too much rod side clearence. The most common place here would be when someone doesn't resize thier rods, often worn rod big end housing bores will get big at the parting line over time, if you are bigger here then the oil will bleed off quicker and the pressure will drop. If rod side clearnece is extremly excessive, say .025"+ then you could see a drop in pressure, a perfect number for rod side clearnece would be about .014"
4. Blockage in the oil gallies, you wouldn't believe the amount of gunk I found in here on some engines, I see it as being a must to remove the factory galley plugs and clean this area of the block with engine wire brshes, no caustic wash will clean this area throughly. Really every orfice in the block and crank needs to be rodded to make sure you have no blockages.
5. 4th is absolutely the goofiest, but you know what I've seen it happen before, the wrong bearings, meaning say putting .020" bearing on a crank that ground to .010", I seen it happen to folks before due to bearing boxes being marked wrong, I alway measure the bearings, and look at what the shell says on the back.
6. A weak or wrong spring in the oil pressure regulator.
Jack, after a block is caustic washed, and before assembly I always hot water and soap wash my blocks, this is a excellent time to follow the trail of oil so to speak, it gives you a better understanding of what going on in there and how the oil travels in a block.
Here's a short list of what I've seen cause low oil pressure in our engines before.
1. Damaged oil pump, always take them apart and look at them, if use, make sure you take both the drive and scroll out of the housing, I've seen drives that were scared and scrolls that were cracked into a couple pieces, and none of theis was that noticable in the housing, ever with the back cover off.
2. Jack you should have a pin drive camshaft and oil pump, are both the oil drive on that end and the pin in the back of the cam in good shape.
3. Too much clearence on rod or main bearings or too much rod side clearence. The most common place here would be when someone doesn't resize thier rods, often worn rod big end housing bores will get big at the parting line over time, if you are bigger here then the oil will bleed off quicker and the pressure will drop. If rod side clearnece is extremly excessive, say .025"+ then you could see a drop in pressure, a perfect number for rod side clearnece would be about .014"
4. Blockage in the oil gallies, you wouldn't believe the amount of gunk I found in here on some engines, I see it as being a must to remove the factory galley plugs and clean this area of the block with engine wire brshes, no caustic wash will clean this area throughly. Really every orfice in the block and crank needs to be rodded to make sure you have no blockages.
5. 4th is absolutely the goofiest, but you know what I've seen it happen before, the wrong bearings, meaning say putting .020" bearing on a crank that ground to .010", I seen it happen to folks before due to bearing boxes being marked wrong, I alway measure the bearings, and look at what the shell says on the back.
6. A weak or wrong spring in the oil pressure regulator.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
"4th is absolutely the goofiest, but you know what I've seen it happen before, the wrong bearings, meaning say putting .020" bearing on a crank that ground to .010", I seen it happen to folks before due to bearing boxes being marked wrong, I alway measure the bearings, and look at what the shell says on the back."
This is what I expect to find.
Checked with my machine shop/engine builder today. He said much the same thing and suggested that I use plastigage to check sizes.
I thought about all of this and took the engine to him this afternoon for him to check and correct.
He does lots and lots of engines of all kinds, seems a nice guy, has a good rep around the area, and his priceing is good.
We will find out what the real problem is/was the end of the week but for sure the old oil pump was toast so it is gone.
Boy did he have some nice completed engines setting out in front today to be picked up. Wheeeeeee.
This is what I expect to find.
Checked with my machine shop/engine builder today. He said much the same thing and suggested that I use plastigage to check sizes.
I thought about all of this and took the engine to him this afternoon for him to check and correct.
He does lots and lots of engines of all kinds, seems a nice guy, has a good rep around the area, and his priceing is good.
We will find out what the real problem is/was the end of the week but for sure the old oil pump was toast so it is gone.
Boy did he have some nice completed engines setting out in front today to be picked up. Wheeeeeee.