• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Question-brakes

Share this page

jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
Country flag
Offline
74 Midget

New master cyl

New rebuilt front discs

New hoses

Rear brakes adjusted and drums turned

Emergency brake adjusted and works fine.

No leaks

Can not get pedal up, have blead till no air and then somemore, quite a bit in fact.

Could it be the switch assy "shuttle" thing (Moss 141-710) for the front rear brake not working or stuck.

Can I take out the center peice and just then carry on as usual. The master cyl would then just pump I think to all four brakes straight through.

Comments folks, I stuck.
 
I believe this shuttle thing is a switch which checks if both front and rear brake systems are making pressure. If the shuttle thing goes to one side, it sets off a brake light. I see no reason why you couldn't take this out and continue bleeding. Many people seem to have this exact problem, apparent air in the line, and there are a variety of ways to solve. I have found that pulling the fluid through the lines from the bleeders is better than pushing it. I use a small suction pump device. Another technique is to check the master cylinders first by taking off the lines and replacing it with a short brake line. That way you can just bleed the m/s without getting fluid all over the place. I would put the shuttle thing back in once you get the brakes working again, as it does serve a safety feature. Hope this helps.
Scott in CA
 
Jack, when we did mine, we threw a bleeder on the "shuttle" bled it to there. reconnected and continued - it took more fluid than you would think
 
Jack, from what I've heard the shuttle switch is just that, a switch and won't block flow to either side if one side fails to have pressure. There's no reason to remove the shuttle even if the switch doesn't work. I believe that part of the problem is due to the routing of the brake lines across the firewall. They run up and across and form a place where bubbles can collect easily. I find that if you're not using a good vacuum or pressure bleeder it can be difficult to push the air out of this area.
 
I just did a master cylinder replacement on my 73, I started on the left front furthest away from the master cylinder. I had to prime the cylinder by using a vacuum pump to get the fluid moving. I then switched to the right front and with the cylinder primed, I just bleed it as normal. I then moved to the left rear, furthest from the cylinder and really had to suck with the vacuum line to get fluid back and prime cylinder, then switched to the right.

In this whole process I did not open or touch the distribution shuttle valve. It did take ALOT of fluid to finally get it working.

The rear was actually harder as it did not want to prime and spent a lot of time on my back using the vacuum line to get fluid in and air out.
I also spent the 35 buck and got the speed bleeders from ebay, this also included the clutch speed bleeder.
Ebay - MG Midget Speed Bleeders

Best $35.00 I ever spent!
Dan
 
Back
Top